Dressed up as wealthy Joseons in the hanok village with two of my travel companions, Marcy and Denise. Photo / Supplied
A bullet train travelling at over 300km/h takes my little tour group from Seoul to Gyeongju. The ride itself is at breakneck speed, yet feels as smooth as a slow drive through a sleepy town, which is exactly where we end up.
Gyeongju is a quiet, rural area rich with history of fallen kingdoms. A mountainous backdrop surrounds flat, colourful fields that may look at first to have very little going on. Stepping out of the train station, I’m instantly hit with a cool breeze, which is a sweet relief after the humidity of Seoul.
Hopping into a private van, we beeline to a local restaurant for lunch, and a hearty meal of eel, rice, miso soup and about half a million side dishes is the perfect fuel for a full exploration of the region’s affluent past.
Nearby, flower meadows flushed with colour surround an ancient astronomical observatory, known as Cheomseongdae Observatory. The cylindrical structure was constructed during the seventh century under the reign of Queen Seondeok – the first female ruler of the Silla Kingdom, one of three kingdoms in Korea. It measures 27 layers high, pointing to Seondeok as the 27th ruler. There are 365 stones in total, symbolising the number of days in a year.
The true secrets of this land lie in 23 grass-covered tombs. They may look to the casual observer to be poignant yet rather innocuous hills, but beneath them lie some of Korea’s wealthiest and most regal figures. While the bulk of them are anonymous, the status of those buried is demonstrated by the volume of luxuries within.
Historically, the wealthy were buried with their possessions. Wooden frames were constructed around the body and belongings, wealth covered with large rocks and huge mounds of soil, which collapsed the wooden structure, sealing off the body and wealth and leaving a manmade hill.
We had the opportunity to enter the Cheonmachong Tomb, which has been partially excavated and transformed into a museum. It is thought to have been constructed some time in the late fifth or early sixth century. In the centre lies the coffin, with the wooden framing still partially intact and rocks over the top. Glass casing displays items that belonged to the ancient Joseon. Artefacts of significance included a golden crown, belts, a cap, a diadem and gilt–bronze shoes.
We arrive at our traditional Korean accommodation in the mid–afternoon. The hanok village consists of quaint, wooden housing with curved terracotta rooftops, large eaves and a warm, oaky aroma. Inside one home, two sets of thin, sliding doors open into my home for the night – a compact room with wooden floors and white walls. There is a dinky yet sleek bathroom at the back, with the bonus of air-conditioning, although the climate and ventilation leave little need. The bedding – or ibul – consists of a thin simple mattress, duvet and a pillow resembling a hackysack. For those eager to stay in touch with the wider world, there is a television and Wi-Fi.
After we settle in, our tour guide Priya surprises us with a slight detour from the history lesson. What better way to cap off a day of education than by belting out Gangnam Style at karaoke? We take turns singing full blast (and probably off-key) while picking away at a huge spread of fried chicken, fries, tteokbokki, corn cheese, dried filefish and a healthy serving of soju. My song of choice? Rhianna’s Please Don’t Stop the Music.
We tipsily wander through Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond, which are illuminated by warm lighting and accompanied by the restful ambience of insects. My ibul is surprisingly comfortable, and after a day exploring tombs, devouring Korea’s finest cuisine and insulting the eardrums of my fellow travellers, I have no difficulty dropping into a dreamy slumber.
Emerging from my humble hanok at 7am, I am greeted by bright, crisp country air, a sunny sky and the sounds of singing birds. I grab a few pastries and a large coffee from the Do Not Disturb cafe on the corner of the village, less than a minute’s walk away. Sitting on the step outside my quaint abode, a light spring breeze tickles my legs. Little pink flowers bloom in the shrubs under miniature trees in the courtyard, which features stone sculptures and the hypnotic splashes of a fountain. Numerous brightly coloured carp mingle in a pool in the centre of the clearing, with a stone bridge running over the top.
The village presents an opportunity to embrace an element of childhood. I haven’t dressed up and pretended to be a king in two – maybe even three – years. A communal room is stocked full of traditional Josean clothing, making for an Instagrammable opportunity next to the pretty clearing with a hanok background.
As I sit in my regal robes in the courtyard, I wonder what the ancient Korean people would’ve made of Wi-Fi, fried chicken and other modern comforts. I bet they would’ve loved Rihanna.
SOUTH KOREA
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Incheon with one stopover with Malaysian Airlines.
DETAILS
For more information on G Adventures’ 9–day Solo–ish South Korea tour, visit gadventures.com.