Tim Piper knows there's much more to surfing in Fiji than Cloudbreak.
From surfing legendary reef breaks to soaking up a passionate rugby culture, Fiji’s Coral Coast is a sports-lover’s dream, if you know where to look, writes Liam Napier.
Witnessing the sun kiss a big barreling left-hander, somewhere in the South Pacific Ocean, is one of Mother Nature’s more beautiful sights.
One of Fiji’s gnarliest waves, Frigates Pass is the Coral Coast’s answer to Cloudbreak and, while it’s no hidden gem (Matthew McConaughey returned from a stint at Frigates in the movie Surfer Dude) it is under-the-radar compared to Fiji’s most iconic surfing destination.
Tim Piper, the Auckland-raised surf operations manager at Waidroka Bay Resort on Fiji’s Coral Coast, has travelled the world to ride waves in more than 50 countries.
After we return from a taxing five-hour session in about one-metre waves at Frigates, he explains why Fiji is an increasingly sought-after surfing location. Unlike New Zealand, where the long sand shelf often weakens waves by the time they hit the shoreline, Fiji’s shallow surrounding volcanoes quickly generate heavy barrels over reef breaks.
“Fiji is amazing,” Piper says. “You need a boat, which is unusual. Most places I’ve surfed, you just jump off the beach. That’s why Waidroka is so special, because we’ve got five boats.
“The waves come from a long distance, from the Tasman Sea, so you get long, groomed swell lines and that’s why places like Cloudbreak – arguably one of the best waves in the world – is so famous.”
Cloudbreak put Fiji on the surfing map, as it hosted a spot on the world tour for two decades. Its accessibility from Nadi airport is another appeal, alongside the six breaks that include three rights and three lefts. However, there’s more to Fiji’s surf scene than Cloudbreak.
“Our zone is quite special because it is further afield,” Piper says, adding that it slips off the radar of most surf tourists. Yet, those who visit can access eight surf breaks straight off the dock at Waidroka resort.
The Coral Coast, between Sigatoka and Suva, boasts four reefs, three villages and seven waves, including the Frigates, a reef break in the Mamanuca Islands, a 45-minute boat ride from shore.
“It’s unreal,” Piper says of Frigates. “They say it’s our version of Cloudbreak but it’s different. The word is out: it’s Cloudbreak but with half the crowd.“ On this particular day, after rising before the sun, we had Frigates to ourselves for one and a half hours before two other boats arrived to join the fun.
“It’s a gnarly wave; a wave of consequence,” Piper says after one Sydney-based Australian surfer among our crew broke his board. “On big days it can be a real problem. Even the best surfers that I know who surf there when it’s big say it’s terrifying.”
Compared to other surfing destinations Fiji is largely considered best suited for intermediate and above, with “Fiji tattoos” from close coral encounters common.
“If you want to learn to surf, I wouldn’t recommend Fiji. It’s not impossible, but it’s largely shallow coral. It’s not safe for the students, or the teacher, at the reef passes.”
Waidroka, one hour and 15 minutes from Suva, is different from your typical resort. Situated in a coconut grove in the middle of a rain forest, surrounded by sounds of birds, and featuring stunning sunsets, it’s a secluded hideaway from any hustle and bustle.
Instead of Michelin-star chefs, there are cooks who have learned how to turn local produce into some of the best food on the Coral Coast. Don’t miss the yaloka ni viti breakfast wrap or, so I’m told, “Fijian burrito”. With 90% of the resort staff from the local village and everyone, from managers to guests, sharing the three-course evening meal, the resort encompasses a welcoming, homely, family atmosphere.
With 12 classic bungalows, all with hammocks on the deck, and a capacity of 24-36 people, the resort is never crowded. While there’s no beach, the pool takes pride of place in the courtyard, and the dock is ideal for launching boats to surf and dive – the latter another major tourist appeal alongside other offerings that include yoga and river tubing.
South African instructor Jamie Ayliffe, who describes Fiji as the world’s soft coral capital, leads intimate dive groups, with a maximum of 26 people. From Beqa lagoon to the surrounding barrier reef and the striking coral colours, Gorgonian sea fans, spotted eagle rays, Spanish mackerel and shark dives, Ayliffe says Fiji is a must-visit dive destination.
“This one compares to no other you see elsewhere,” Ayliffe enthuses about the local shark dive. “It’s mostly bull and tawny nose sharks and, if you’re lucky, a tiger will come through. We can see up to six to eight species of sharks on one dive. It’s insane. I’ve seen over 40 bull sharks in one dive. It’s jam-packed.”
Waidroka offers a range of open water dive courses for all abilities, as well as a specialty nitrox-enriched air dive that provides more oxygen to allow longer and shorter intervals between dives. This is the only resort that goes to Cekau Leka Leka – a deep-water atoll one and a half hours out to sea, too. The submerged volcano drops down 1000m on all sides.
“Because it’s so far out, the visibility is always perfect and the coral is pristine. It’s amazing,” Ayliffe says. “No other dive operator goes there. It’s the best diving I’ve seen in Fiji.”
Beyond Waidroka, Fiji’s diversity extends to rugby, the island nation’s national sport and, by extension, religion.
Consider this for an insight into Fiji’s rugby obsession. When the men’s sevens team captured Fiji’s first Olympic medal at the 2016 Rio Games, the country celebrated with a national holiday, and the team’s English coach, Ben Ryan, replaced the Queen on the seven-dollar note and 10-cent coin. The usual three-hour journey from Nadi to Suva swelled to nine as the team bus stopped in every village to share their success. Rugby’s deep-seated connection extends throughout Fiji.
Ratu Filise Memorial School and the Namatakula village of around 420 people, which has produced the likes of NRL championship-winning outside back Noa Nadruku, Wallabies centre Tevita Kuridrani, dual Australian international Lote Tuqiri and powerful rugby wing Nemani Nadolo, is one example of where rugby inspires youth and gives back to the community, with those who crack the professional ranks paying for humble housing renovations.
Four years ago, the Fijian Drua’s introduction into Super Rugby Pacific captured the hearts of a nation by giving the country a long-desired elite team and coveted pathway to support.
In Namatakula (and, indeed, most villages), locals gather in the communal hall to passionately support every Drua game.
Attending a Drua match in Suva or Lautoka is a bucket list sporting experience. Buoyant locals arrive two hours before kickoff with umbrellas in tow to shelter from the sweltering heat and humidity, creating a colourful, vibrant atmosphere replicated in other aspects of Fijian life – such as their open-air buses filled with music and song.
Witnessing Fijian rugby live is to experience a joyous cultural celebration. With infectious “toso Drua toso, toso Drua toso” chants, flags and energy among a comparatively small but highly animated 10,000 crowd, the result is almost secondary.
There is whooping and hollering, flags waved and people shouting, explains the Drua chief executive, Mark Evans.
“I’ve never seen a crowd so joyful. It’s an unusually pure experience,” he said.
“It’s the national sport that helps. Everybody – young, old, boys, girls, iTaukei, Indo-Fijian – comes together for it."
From surfing to diving, rugby to culture, Fiji offers a melting pot of experiences to savour.
Fiji
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Nadi with Fiji Airways.
DETAILS
Waidroka Bay Resort | waidroka.com
New Zealand Herald travelled courtesy of Tourism Fiji and Fiji Airways.