Hunter River and Prince Frederick Harbour. Photo / Supplied
What is it like on board Ponant’s explorer-class ship as it cruises Western Australia’s remote Kimberley coast? Johanna Thornton sails from Broome to Darwin to find out.
Le Jacques Cartier is one of Ponant’s state-of-the-art Explorer-class ships, purpose-built for luxury expeditions in remote regions. With a capacity of just 184 passengers, it offers an intimate, yacht-like experience with an emphasis on comfort, style and discovery.
Its relatively small size makes it ideal for visiting off-the-beaten-track destinations like the Kimberley, the Arctic or the Seychelles, where it can access shallow bays and rivermouths and take guests up close to the action, without compromising on luxury.
On board, it’s a French affair – from elegant staterooms with private balconies to fine dining and champagne, a spa, and a plunge pool. What sets it apart is its team of expert naturalists who accompany guests on Zodiac excursions along the Kimberley’s spectacular coastline, sharing stories about the ancient sandstone cliffs, Aboriginal rock art and abundance of wildlife.
The ship’s design blends modern elegance with expedition-ready functionality. The ship features 92 staterooms and suites spread across four passenger decks, offering airy, light-filled spaces with ocean views. A hydraulic marina at the stern is the focal point for expertly planned, daily Zodiac excursions.
It might be classified as a small ship but it never feels crowded on board Le Jacques Cartier. With roughly 150 guests on board during my sailing, there’s always a spot to relax, drink or dine.
Public areas include the observation lounge on deck six, an 188-seat theatre (where daily briefings take place), indoor and outdoor dining across two levels, a wellness centre with spa, sauna and gym, and an infinity-edge pool. A popular gathering point is the main lounge, which opens early for coffee and pastries and transitions throughout the day from the excursion meeting point to a hub for activities like quizzes and French lessons, to afternoon tea and post-dinner dancing.
The Observatory is ideal for enjoying the cocktail of the day, watching the sunset or settling in with a book. Don’t miss the unique Blue Eye Lounge on deck zero, a world-first underwater observatory where guests can watch marine life and listen to the ocean through hydrophones – or just enjoy a Curacao-infused Blue Eye cocktail and music.
The starting point for Ponant’s “Australia’s Iconic Kimberley Cruise” is Broome, on the traditional lands of the Yawuru people – a tropical coastal town in Western Australia known for its multicultural heritage, pearling industry and postcard-perfect sights like Cable Beach. Ponant offers an optional one-night pre-cruise package, and it’s well worth adding Broome to your itinerary. Airport transfers to the Mangrove Hotel, the official cruise meeting point, are included.
Check-in is seamless: guests drop their bags at the Ponant desk, enjoy light refreshments, then receive their cabin keys before boarding a shuttle to the port – all within an hour. By 4pm, we were welcomed aboard by Captain Christophe Dupuy and shown directly to our stateroom, where our luggage was waiting. All that remained was to unpack and head for a welcome cocktail before setting sail.
There are just two restaurants on board – the fine dining, multi-course Le Nautilus, and the more casual Grill Restaurant on the pool deck – but the offering is so varied (and included in your fare), it feels abundant. The Grill is a go-to at lunchtime when the sun is shining and an elaborate poolside cooking station turns out everything from big pans of paella brimming with chorizo, octopus, mussels, chicken and rice, to a seafood extravaganza complete with prawn towers and trays of shellfish.
In the air-conditioned Le Nautilus, with its crisp white tablecloths and sparkling glassware, expect a six-course French menu designed by executive chef Philippe Morvan, alongside an alternative menu of “Australian-friendly” options – a rack of NZ lamb one night, chicken parmy the next – a selection of French wines, and attentive service. The tables are designed for socialising, with plenty for six or more, as friendships are inevitably formed during the cruise. For those who prefer a quiet table for two, there’s always one to be found.
Pastry chef Kevin Tiraboshi’s desserts are an absolute standout (think pecan pie, lemon meringue tart, pistachio financier, mille-feuille and big bowls of chocolate mousse) that have most guests indulging at both lunch and dinner. The understated desserts are often the heroes, like the crème anglaise, served from a jug, which caused many a queue. No French cruise is complete without a cheese buffet, and Le Jacques Cartier’s offered an astonishing array of French selections and accompaniments, from Coulommiers and ash brie to Morbier, Comté and Cantal.
Compact yet cleverly designed, our Prestige Stateroom delivers boutique hotel comfort at sea. At 19sq m, it fits a king bed, seating area, wardrobe, mini bar and a private balcony – with thoughtful storage and luxe details throughout.
The bathroom, stocked with Clarins products, even offers ocean views from the shower. Daily turndown includes a parade of petit fours, and 24/7 room service means you can enjoy a Ponant burger and a glass of champagne while you watch a movie in bed.
Don’t expect to get your step count up on this cruise. The most walking I did was from the cabin to the breakfast buffet, with daily expeditions often restricted to a Zodiac cruise without touching land. So if you’re keen to earn that second slice of lemon meringue pie, the compact gym, with its ocean outlook, is the place to be.
You might even spot dolphins while you work out (true story). In lieu of a walking loop on an upper level, I also made the most of the stairwell and long hallways. I loved the spa and salon, with its dreamy menu of facials, massages and hair treatments using Clarins products, perfect for an at-sea day.
With 127 crew members to a maximum of 184 guests, Le Jacques Cartier offers impressively attentive service. You quickly get to know the hard-working and personable team, from Agus, who keeps our stateroom impeccably clean, to Iwan, the waiter who remembers our spice preference and ensures Tabasco appears on the breakfast table (even sharing a sachet of sambal from his personal stash). Sommelier Claudelie always has an armful of French wine to match the day’s menu, while restaurant manager Jennyfer glides through the dining room with effortless efficiency. Cruise director Johan keeps the schedule running smoothly with charm and precision, and the true stars – the naturalists – are walking encyclopaedias and great company on excursions.
Each day, the ship anchors at a new location in the Kimberley on its way from Broome to Darwin. Expert-led Zodiac excursions take guests into mangrove-lined rivers, to ancient Aboriginal rock art, and zoom right up close to Talbot Bay’s Horizontal Falls. A highlight is Montgomery Reef, which appears to rise dramatically from the sea as the tide drops.
You will see wildlife, including crocodiles (a real thrill as a New Zealander), green turtles, mudskippers, stingrays and nesting seabirds. Guests are assigned to small expedition groups at the start of the journey, which is a great way to forge bonds across the 10-day voyage. You won’t swim (as well as crocodiles, there are sharks, jellyfish and dangerous tides), but you will cruise through dramatic gorges and toast champagne beneath King George Falls. This is not a cruise for independent explorers or active hikers – with only two opportunities to step ashore, walking is minimal (even accounting for those return trips to the buffet and bar). But for lovers of luxury and wild, remote beauty, at a very gentle pace, it’s unforgettable.
From $14,129 per person for a 10-night Australia’s Iconic Kimberley. Includes daily expert-led excursions, onboard meals and drinks, including 24/7 room service and mini bar.
The writer was a guest on board courtesy of Ponant. She flew courtesy of Qantas and Virgin Australia.