Fortezza in Rethymno. Photo / 123RF
Greece has an island for every interest, whether that’s sunbathing, dramatic landscapes, or tasty cuisine, but Crete doesn’t fit neatly in one box, writes Agnes Groonwald.
When my husband and I began planning our first trip to Greece, we knew we wanted to enjoy the best of the country’s iconic cuisine, scenic hikes, and ancient sites, all in one place. After much research, Crete quickly rose to the top of the list, and having now visited, I can confirm Greece’s largest island has something for everyone.
The more adventurous can plan hikes to ancient monasteries and hidden coves. History lovers can explore archaeological sites like Knossos. The island’s beaches are numerous, some even with pink sands, and if you’re here to eat, you won’t be disappointed.
If delicious food is a travel priority, Crete will impress you with a cuisine that stars fresh, flavourful ingredients. Every meal we had offered something to celebrate, including the bill. You don’t have to blow your budget to eat well here.
Starting in Chania, getting away from the Old Town rewards you with local spots like Apokoronas, a favourite for grilled chicken, lamb, and generous Cretan salads. Bougatsa Lordanis, the town’s oldest bougatsa bakery, stays busy all morning serving its signature phyllo filled with Chaniot mizithra cheese. To Steno was our favourite for Greek mezze with a modern twist, like beet tarts and lentil balls. As expected across Crete, we finished with a shot of twice-distilled raki and dessert on the house at the end of our meal.
Stella’s Kitchen in Rethymno is a family-run institution that has earned a reputation for authentic, home-style fare like gigantes beans, wild greens, and lamb stews prepared fresh daily. We didn’t bother consulting the menu at this one. Stella let us know what was available for lunch as soon as we entered, and did the same with a tourist who came after and requested a Greek salad. (“You come all this way for a Greek salad?” she asked him. It was quite the scene.) Crete is where tourists and Greeks go to eat well.
Crete’s best scenery is accessed with some effort, and few places capture the island’s spirit for adventure like the hike to Katholiko Bay on the Akrotiri Peninsula. On our way to the hidden cove, we explored the ruins of Katholiko Monastery, one of the oldest monasteries on the island, carved right into the cliffs. Monks once gathered here to pray, study, and live simply, supported by pilgrims who travelled to the remote site seeking spiritual guidance.
This was our favourite part of the hike, even though we were initially there for the bay views at the end. We didn’t have to share it with anyone, either. Despite how close the start of the trail is to Chania – you can get there in about 40 minutes by car – few tourists make the trek here, so wandering through those stone archways and abandoned cells felt like stumbling upon a secret.
Crete’s history is shaped by centuries of civilisations that left a legacy on the island. After leaving Chania to drive across the northern part of the island, we stopped by the Fortezza in Rethymno. The 16th-century citadel was built by the Venetians to protect against Ottoman invasions but was eventually overthrown and modified with a mosque and other structures following the raids in the mid-1600s. Today, walking through its massive walls offers sweeping views of the sea and city and a peek into the city’s rich history.
Another hour-and-a-half east, Knossos and the Palace of Minos are considered by most historians as the most famous Minoan sites in the world. Dating back to around 1900 BC, this was the ceremonial and political centre of the Minoan civilisation. We didn’t mind the extensive reconstructions here, an effort by British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans to bring the site to life in the early 20th century. Like many of the ruins in and around Athens, there wouldn’t be much to look at other than rubble otherwise.
Chania is a great base if you want a city with plenty of restaurants and shops, but the magic of this place is really discovered outside the towns. With a car, you can find yourself at monastic wineries like Agia Triada, a place I’ll remember fondly as introducing me to orange-flavoured balsamic cream.
Driving makes it easier to explore the island’s beaches, too. Elafonissi Beach on Crete’s southwestern coast is a popular one for its pink hue, caused by crushed seashells and tiny coral fragments. To avoid crowds, though, an option like Falasarna Beach offers more relaxed vibes, white sand, and food stalls for when you get hungry.
The drive was just as good as the beach itself, winding through small towns and olive farms, including a route that took us through to the Ancient Olive Tree of Vouves. Historians say this is one of the oldest olive trees in the world, and it costs nothing to see it. There are so many sites like this to explore on an adventure in Crete, a playground for foodies, explorers, and travellers looking for the perfect introduction to Greece.
The writer travelled at their own expense.