Terracotta, terracotta and more terracotta. Photo / Wildlab
Many tourists travel right past Bologna en route to other Italy hot spots, but those who stop and linger experience true Italian delights, writes Jade Raykovski.
Bologna is a city with three nicknames: “La Rossa” (The Red), “La Dotta” (The Learned), and “La Grassa” (The Fat). The first is obvious from the terrace of the city’s Clock Tower, where my gaze wanders over Bologna’s red-tiled roofs.
“Terracotta, terracotta or terracotta … those are the only options,” explains my guide, Maria. “There’s no marble or travertine in Bologna, only clay. So we went for terracotta.”
The impact of the various red-coloured facades is striking, especially when viewed against the green hills that border the southern side of the city. Today, the colour restrictions don’t come from necessity, but to preserve Bologna’s iconic cityscape.
Bologna is often left off Italy’s main tourist route, which is surprising when you realise how easy it is to get here. The capital of the Emilia-Romagna region, the city is in the centre of northern Italy, just two hours from Rome by train, one hour from Milan and 35 minutes from Florence.
A visit to the Clock Tower at the Palazzo d’Accursio is a perfect way to get your bearings (if you don’t mind a few steep steps). The building is home to the city’s council and Municipal Art Collection, and faces on to Piazza Maggiore, the main square.
From the terrace, you can view two more important symbols of Bologna. The first is the city’s medieval towers, built by local families as a sign of prestige and for defence. There were originally around 100, however today only 22 remain. The most recognised are the “Two Towers”, Garisenda and Asinelli; as of writing, both are closed for safety reasons, because like Pisa’s notorious tower, Garisenda is leaning, and sits precariously close to Asinelli.
The other famous visible landmark is the Sanctuary of San Luca, an important basilica for religious worship located in the hills. Its icon of the Virgin Mary is considered miraculous for ending the flooding rains of 1433 when it was brought down into Bologna.
“For locals, San Luca is a sign that we’re home, because it can be seen from the train, airport and highways,” Maria says.
There’s an easy or hard way to reach the basilica: take the San Luca Express, a tourist train that leaves from Piazza Maggiore, or walk the longest portico in the world, approximately 3.8km of 666 arches, which winds like a serpent from the city centre (I suggest the shuttle up and walking back down).
From the Clock Tower, many of Bologna’s historical sites are nearby. Admire the 16th-century Fountain of Neptune in Piazza Maggiore, before stepping into the Basilica of San Petronio. Entry is free, however pay extra to view The Chapel of the Three Kings, home to a stunning fresco of scenes depicting heaven and hell by Giovanni da Modena.
Next, visit the Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, where the nickname of “The Learned” becomes clear. This was the historic seat of the University of Bologna, the oldest university in the Western world founded in 1088 (and still running). Wander its porticoed courtyard, lavishly decorated with the coats of arms of past teachers and students, before visiting its Anatomical Theatre, a unique amphitheatre-shaped wooden room once used for anatomical lectures. Although the original 16th-century building was damaged by a WWII bombing raid, the reconstructed room contains original carved wooden statues and decorations.
Come evening, it’s time to explore “The Fat” side of Bologna. The city is famous for some of Italy’s most recognised dishes, including lasagne alle Bolognese and tagliatelle al ragu, best tasted at an authentic trattoria such as Va Mo La in the university district. Bologna is also the place to try popular regional products like Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, and the “queen of Bologna” – mortadella.
“Bologna’s food itself is rich, and there is richness in our agriculture as well,” explains Federica, my Taste Bologna tour guide for the evening.
She leads our group through the narrow streets of the Quadrilatero market, which at aperitivo hour, is bustling with tourists and locals alike. We stop at various shops including the 157-year-old Paolo Atti & Figli pasticceria where we sample torta di riso, a traditional baked rice cake, and Simoni’s deli, an institution for the area’s specialty cheeses and cold cuts.
Then we take our haul to Bologna’s oldest wine bar, Osteria del Sole, where we pair Lambrusco, a local wine, with mortadella, salame rosa, caramelised figs, friggione (caramelised onions in tomato sauce), squacquerone (a soft cheese), bread, prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano, topped with a 12-year-old balsamic vinegar from Modena. But the night isn’t over. There’s still pan pizza from Fiore Mio, and some of the best gelato I’ve ever tried at Maritozzi e Gelato.
I walk back to my hotel under the city’s Unesco-listed porticoes, fully satisfied – both with the food and my choice to step off the well-trodden path and hop on a train to Bologna.
The writer was a guest of Bologna Welcome and Taste Bologna.