Sunrise kayak between morning commuters on Sydney Harbour. Photo / Jenée Tibshraeny
A pet peeve of mine is people saying they’ve “done” a place, rather than “gone to” or “visited” it.
“We had a lovely holiday in Europe. We did Paris and the south of France, and then did Italy.”
The turn-of-phrase doesn’t actually make sense. But my aversion to it stems from the inference you can tick off a place like a chore on to-do list, having spent a few days there.
There is finality to “doing” a country – a sense of, “been there, done that, end of story”. A recent trip to Sydney only entrenched my view.
Like many Kiwis, I’ve spent a bit of time in the city over the years. But it never gets old. Sydney is dynamic, affluent, and most importantly – moving.
It’s a honey pot for the aspirational from around the world, who contribute energy and diversity to the place. But unlike many of the other great international cities, Sydney is naturally beautiful and only a stone-throw away from New Zealand.
I came home from my short getaway feeling like I’d experienced something new.
Big bucks have been sunk into rejuvenating well-trodden spaces in the city.
A sprawling cobblestoned courtyard at The Rocks, by the waterfront, is no longer home to the sticky floors and booming baselines of the iconic nightclub, the Argyle. Hunter St Hospitality has transformed the 1800sqm heritage-rich space into an upmarket hospitality precinct.
Opening in April, “The Collective” includes a handful of venues for breakfast, lunch and dinner that feel like an oasis in a bustling part of the city. You can enjoy an alfresco dining experience, cosy up under the warm light and wooden beams of the restaurant downstairs, or sip a cocktail in the company of the resident DJ upstairs.
You can also peruse the hub’s 500-bottle of wine collection, or pop across the courtyard to Tailor Room – an intimate fabric-themed cocktail bar.
Be it silk or fur, you can page through a menu of fabrics and select a cocktail based on whether you’re after something “smooth, elegant and fizzy” or “fluffy, warm and spicy”.
A half-an-hour walk inland from The Rocks, the historic Paddy’s Markets have just had a $20 million facelift. They’re no longer only a place to pick up fresh produce and cheap nick-nacks.
After a three-year retrofit, the big brick building across the road from Chinatown now also features a slick international foodcourt, with artisan stalls dotted in between.
With about 50 traders under one roof at the new “Hay St Market at Paddy’s”, you want to arrive decisive if you’re hungry. Otherwise, browsing the options is half the fun.
Those familiar with Sydney know it’s a city of suburbs with distinct flavours. You can have quite a different experience in one pocket of the city versus another.
Moving between the more tourist hotspots downtown, to the trendy inner-city suburbs, and the coastal areas is a perfect illustration of this. A bit like going from Auckland’s Viaduct to Grey Lynn and Takapuna.
I enjoyed experiencing Sydney through the eyes of a fashionable Surry Hills local, with a designer dog, paying an extortionate amount to live in a little villa a few train stops from Circular Quay.
We’re talking high-end cafes, bars and restaurants that don’t feel stuffy, independent clothing and homeware stores, and boujee bakeries. It turns out Sydneysiders don’t mind queuing for the perfect Danish from a trending joint like A.P. Bakery.
Because restaurants are scattered throughout the leafy streets of Surry Hills, I’d recommend doing a bit of research to make your pick, rather than relying on having a wander to find a spot with a good vibe.
Jane was a standout for dinner. It was cosy, the staff were friendly, and the Australian-inspired food rich and flavourful. The sharing plates were also generous in size. We went on a Tuesday night and it was full.
If you can’t get a dinner reservation, try nabbing one of the few curb-side tables for a late-afternoon drink and snack during “Australiano Hour”. This is the great thing about many Sydney eateries. There are ways of enjoying a taster from a pricier spot at a lower cost.
On the border of Surry Hills and Redfern is another impressive redevelopment. The site of the Wunderlich factory, which produced art deco embellishments widely used throughout the city, has been transformed into an uber-stylish hospitality and lifestyle precinct.
True to form, the architecture and fitouts of the various hospitality offerings, shops, amenities and accommodation are striking. We ate dinner at Island Radio, which was humming.
Of course, having a fresh Sydney experience by basing oneself in a ‘burb doesn’t stop at Surry Hills.
Newtown is a great spot for those who appreciate delicious food from around the world, independent retailers and a plethora of entertainment options.
The main road is jam-packed with hospitality outlets and retailers. The vibe is grungier and more youthful than the locations mentioned above. In some ways, it’s a supercharged version of Newtown in Wellington.
There is only so much wining, dining, and wandering around you can do on holiday. For those who feel like they’ve seen a bit of Sydney on foot, there are user-friendly ways of sightseeing by bike or kayak.
We did a tiki tour with Bonza Bike Tours. Our guide gave us a thorough rundown of the history of the city, before we hooned across the harbour bridge - trading speed for enjoyment of the vistas and vice-versa.
E-biking is great fun – you can cover quite a bit of ground without working up a sweat. Cycle lanes are also common in the city.
Now for the kayak – this was a real highlight. Setting out in the dark from Lavender Bay (with flasks of coffee) was quite the adventure. I’d seen the city by ferry, but seeing the city lights and the Opera House standing proud as the sun rose was spectacular.
Being part of the traffic on the water, including a container ship, during people’s commutes, also gave me a buzz. I’m sure this was helped by the fact I wasn’t among those rushing to work!
It was all laughs with the Sydney by Kayak crew. They made the excursion, which would be suitable for a single, couple, family, friend or corporate group.
The energy from the business’ founder, as well as one of her guides – a young guy from the United Kingdom – embodied the get-go that makes Sydney attractive.
I enjoyed “doing” a early morning activity, but am far from having “done” Sydney. There’s always more to experience in a place, particularly when it’s moving and evolving at pace.
Sydney, Australia
Getting there
Several airlines fly direct to Sydney from New Zealand, including Air New Zealand, Qantas, and Jetstar.
Details
For more information on Sydney, visit sydney.com or destinationnsw.com.au.
The journalist travelled as a guest of Destination NSW.
Jenée Tibshraeny is the Herald’s Wellington business editor, based in the parliamentary press gallery. She specialises in government and Reserve Bank policymaking, economics and banking.
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