Ask Lonely Planet: Plus side of travel during Ramadan

Dubai's Burj-al-Arab hotel, built on its own artificial island. Photo / Supplied

I am travelling to the United Arab Emirates in September for one week. I have been told that this could clash with Ramadan when you shouldn't travel. Is this true?
Mandy Arthur

Ramadan in 2009 will occur from about August 22 and go through to about September 20, so you might miss it if you're travelling later in September. The holy month of Ramadan is when Muslims must abstain from eating, drinking, sex or smoking during daylight hours.

How strictly Ramadan is observed depends on the country you are in. Unlike in Saudi Arabia where you can get a jail sentence for eating (or even chewing gum) during the day in public, in the UAE foreigners are not expected to adhere to the rules but to refrain from breaking the rules in public. Out of Dubai, in more conservative parts of the UAE, you will find that food service, even in your room, might be difficult to come by. Hotels may also empty minibars and won't serve alcohol in the bars during Ramadan. If you are pregnant, sick or travelling by road during daylight hours, then you are permitted to eat, though any consumption should always be discreet.

Although hotels might be a bit cheaper at this time, you'll find that during daylight hours there isn't a whole lot to do. Tour operators don't run tours, cinemas are closed and some souqs and markets pull down the shutters.

The plus side of travelling to the UAE at this time is the festive atmosphere that descends once the sun has gone down. Once the evening prayers are over, the feast begins (known as Iftar), shisha pipes are lit up and there is socialising through the night. Tour operators host special Iftar tours and dinners for visitors.

It's a chance to try Ramadan specialties and catch traditional dancing and singing. In fact, you have to ensure you don't overeat during Ramadan.

Have a read of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs & Trade's (MFAT's) travel advisory for the UAE at safetravel.govt.nz.

Quiet spots in Venice
My wife and I are planning on flying to Venice for a week's holiday. We're considering the option of travelling by overnight train rather than flying on to London. Also, what are the pros and cons of booking a hotel versus renting an apartment for our Venice stay?
Ian Wilson

Flying into Venice with a bird's-eye view as you glide over the islands and lagoon is without doubt the best way to arrive in the city of canals.

Approaching Venice by sea is the icing on the cake, and the Alilaguna boat line from Marco Polo International Airport serves many of the city's vaporetto stops (fares from $13 to $30, depending on your destination). You could opt for a shared water taxi, which will cost around double the price.

If you have money to burn, Venice has some spectacularly luxurious hotels in unbelievably picturesque canal-side locations. Unfortunately, for the budget-conscious, hotels are pricey and the quality can be less than great at the mid to lower end of the market.

The advantage of renting an apartment is that you are more likely to find yourself in a less crowded location. An area such as Castello, near the Arsenale, is surprisingly quiet and offers up a slice of daily life. It has local cafes and a floating fresh produce market where you can grab supplies if you want to cook at home.

Check out Venice Apartments to get an idea of apartment types and cost.

While taking the overnight train from Venice to London is no Orient Express, it still conjures up that little bit of romance that only train travel can offer. A twin sleeping berth is a basic but comfortable compartment that doubles as a sitting room by day and twin bunks by night.

You can dine in the restaurant car for about $65 or grab some supplies and a bottle of wine before you leave Venice and settle in for the night in the privacy of your compartment. A complimentary breakfast of tea or coffee and croissants is served in the morning.

The sleeper train leaves Venice at 19:57 and arrives in Paris (Gare de Bercy) the following morning at 08:19. From Paris you catch a Eurostar service from Gare du Nord, arriving in London St Pancras.

Going to extremes
I am planning a nine-week trip to the US and Mexico at the end of the year. I will be going to California, central Mexico (Mexico City, Acapulco, San Miguel de Allende), northern Mexico (Monterrey) and then New York. As the temperatures will vary, I'm wondering what clothing to pack and what items to purchase over there.
Katrina Penny

In California you'll find temperatures ranging from the low to high teens, depending on whether you're in the north or the south of the state. Presumably you'll be more in the south, so expect pleasant temperatures during the day but chillier ones at night. If you are in northern California, expect quite a bit of rainfall during November and December.

Likewise, it can be chilly at night in northern and central Mexico from November to February with daytime temperatures in the low to mid-20s. New York in December is cold, really cold. Temperatures are usually around 5C to 8C during the day in November and December.

If you're lucky there'll be snow rather than sleet. In New York you'll really appreciate a thick, cold-weather coat, one that goes down to your knees at least. If you don't want to lug this particular item around California and Mexico with you, hold off until the end of your Mexico trip before buying a coat for New York.

As part of your planning, be sure to read MFAT's travel advisories for the countries you're visiting at safetravel.govt.nz.