2019 Rugby World Cup Tour Diary: Chicken skins anyone? The challenge of ordering in Japan

New Zealand Herald rugby writer Patrick McKendry in a restaurant in the Shimbashi district in Tokyo, Japan. Photo / Mark Mitchell

Big Rugby World Cup news in Japan: the organisers have relented and are allowing spectators to bring their own food into stadiums after "sold out" signs began appearing at in-game outlets, including during the All Blacks v South Africa match at Yokohama Stadium.

The Herald can confirm spectators were not allowed to bring in any food for the opening match between hosts Japan and Russia at Tokyo Stadium because, having walked through a general entry point rather than a media one (a mistake I won't make again), a security woman politely said I could either eat the various packages bought from a nearby supermarket (I wasn't sure of the media meal status), or leave them.

In the interests of the company's financial wellbeing I can reveal I secretly deposited the items around my person and walked through again without a problem. I needn't have worried about being fed before kick-off as it happened, because there is a production line of serving staff ready to fill your recyclable plate with all sorts of things pre-match; rice and a potato variety (salad or mashed) is a big part of it, along with a meat option – so far beef and chicken. It's very westernised in order to cater for more appetites, presumably.

The news of the policy change comes as fears over beer shortages appear to have been unfounded – so far anyway – although some of the Irish supporters at the game between Ireland and Scotland at the same venue appeared to be doing their best to drink the place dry. One green-shirted bloke in dark sunglasses on a very wet night appeared particularly refreshed.

Attempting to accurately order food off a menu written in Japanese is one of the many adventures to be had here and, like the All Blacks so far, there have been personal successes and what may euphemistically be described as work-ons.

Pictures can help, but while it's said they may tell 1000 words, they don't tell the full story. What appear to be beef or chicken skewers can in fact be flavoured chicken skins wrapped tightly around a stick. Yes, skins.

Some restaurants have electronic tablets to help ease the ordering procedure, but even they're not much help without an English language option. A bit of rough sign language can be useful and the wait staff are at pains to never offend; it's why some restuarants cater for only Japanese speakers.

The ordering of sushi is easier to master – you generally know what you're going to get. But if you don't like rice and raw fish your World Cup experience here could be particularly challenging, cuisine-wise. It brings to mind a story about a Kiwi reporter covering the World Cup in France, that home of culinary delights, in 2007, whose default mood was frustration because he couldn't find a decent mince pie.

Change is coming for the All Blacks and those reporting on them as we have arrived in Beppu, on the southern island of Kyusha, after a two-hour internal flight from Tokyo. They play Canada in Oita, not far from here, on October 2.

Beppu is a spa and resort city famous for its more than 2000 onsen (hot springs), steam and scenery. Think of a coastal version of Rotorua, one of its sister cities. The All Blacks should feel right at home here.

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