Frances Cook meets an aquatic beauty in the waters of Rarotonga

"Turtles - or your money back."

We heard it as we were walking through the Saturday markets in Rarotonga.

I'd been there with my mum for just under a week, a girls' bonding trip and we were going back to New Zealand the next day. But it was right at the top of her bucket list, to see a turtle in the wild or, even better, to swim with them.

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There had been no shortage of adventure so far but certainly no turtles either.

Just days earlier, we'd both

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