Tacos de suadero by Mely Martínez. Photo / David Castañeda and Adrian Byers
Tacos de suadero by Mely Martínez. Photo / David Castañeda and Adrian Byers
How to make these famous tacos from Mexico City.
When I think about the tacos in Mexico City, tacos de suadero always come to mind. These are some of the most iconic tacos found there, and their popularity has spread to many parts of the country.
The cut of beef,suadero, is called “rose meat” in the United States. It has a light pink colour, hence the name, and while its tougher texture takes a little more time to cook, the end result is juicy and very tasty.
Season the meat with salt. Heat the lard in a medium pot over medium-high heat. Add the meat and sear each side for about one minute per side.
Cover the meat with four cups (one quart/950 ml) of water (or enough to cover the meat) and cook for about two hours over medium heat, or until the meat is tender (see Notas). Add more water if needed during this process, in case the meat is not tender yet.
Once the meat is tender and the water has reduced completely, remove the meat and finely chop it on a cutting board. Return it to the pot to lightly brown in the leftover grease.
Warm the corn tortillas on a hot comal preheated over medium heat.
Assemble the tacos by placing some chopped suadero on to the warm tortillas. Top with the chopped onion and cilantro and season with salt and serve with the salsa, sliced radish (if using), grilled onions and peppers (if using), and lime wedges for squeezing.
Notas
The suadero cannot be replaced with another cut of beef or meat. In the US, suadero can be found in Latin markets and butcher shops. In Latin America, suadero is also known as matambre and sobrebarriga.
Suadero is a tough meat that needs some time to cook until tender. If you have a pressure cooker or Instant Pot, the meat will only take about 50 minutes on the “manual” setting on high pressure to become tender. You can also cook it in a slow cooker for six hours on the low setting.
Sometimes I cook the meat in advance and just brown it on the comal (while warming the tortillas) when I’m ready to make the tacos.
To grill the spring onions, heat one tablespoon of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, turning occasionally, for even cooking, eight to 10 minutes.
Serrano/ jalapeño peppers: Place the peppers on a hot comal or skillet over medium-high heat for five minutes for serrano peppers and seven to eight minutes for jalapeños, turning them every two minutes or so to roast evenly. Their skins will have a semisoft texture.
Mexico in Your Kitchen: Favorite Mexican Recipes That Celebrate Family, Community, Culture, and Tradition by Mely Martínez.
Mexico in Your Kitchen: Favorite Mexican Recipes That Celebrate Family, Community, Culture, and Tradition by Mely Martínez, $49.99, published by Quarto US.
