What are compound butters and why are they gaining popularity?

Flavoured butter can be savoury or sweet with endless applications, such as this ginger version on scones. Photo / Supplied.

Compound, or flavoured, butters have long had a place in classic cuisine. Traditional blends like maître d’hôtel butter (parsley, lemon juice and butter), anchovy butter, or café de Paris – a spiced, aromatic butter used to finish grilled steak – have been staples of French and European kitchens for generations. These butters weren’t just a flourish; they were a technique, used to add richness, acidity or umami to a dish in one effortless swipe.

While those classic versions still have their place, contemporary compound butters are taking the concept and running with it – not just updating the flavours, but repositioning butter itself as a centrepiece. Today’s iterations are more global, more playful and far more visible – melting across TikTok feeds and making their way into home kitchens, supermarket chillers and small-batch food offerings – occasionally even appearing at local markets or as part of specialty hampers and gift boxes.

Boutique brand The New Zealand Butter Company, for instance, has built its entire lineup around compound butters. Their inventive flavours include Truffle & Parmesan; Smoked Paprika & Chilli; Basil, Garlic & Parmesan; Chocolate Orange; Kaffir Lime & Lemongrass; and Roasted Red Pepper, Garlic & Ginger. Designed to bring restaurant-level flair to weeknight dinners, their range speaks to a growing appetite for shortcuts that don’t sacrifice sophistication.

They’re not alone. At Amisfield Bistro in Queenstown, chef Vaughan Mabee elevates butter into the spotlight. Dishes such as an emulsified sauvignon blanc butter showcase how compound butters can be central to identity-driven cuisine.

And then there’s TikTok. The hashtag #compoundbutter has amassed over 105 million views, inspiring homemade garlic-herb, chilli-crisp, yuzu and even sweet citrus butters. Creators like Thomas Straker (@thomas_straker), in series such as All Things Butter, have tens of thousands of likes, driving home the trend’s visual appeal and DIY ethos.

What’s powering the craze?

Compound butter is versatile, forgiving and transformational. Whether slathered, dolloped or tucked under a chicken’s skin, it infuses dishes with restaurant-level nuance while doubling as a sauce, marinade or stand-alone condiment. For home cooks, it offers adventure with anchor – a playground of flavour tweaks without overwhelming ingredient lists. Mash up miso and honey, or blend carrot-top pesto into butter – edible experiments that feel both creative and achievable.

Whipped butters are spreadable so there's no need to serve on something hot like with other compound butters. Photo / Babiche Martens

It taps into broader culinary currents: pandemic-inspired kitchen creativity, the return of small dinner parties and foodie culture’s love of “elevated basics”. With artisan butter now marketed like fine wine or cheese – cultured, grass-fed, even single-origin – it’s natural that flavoured butters rose alongside.

The trend also aligns with minimalist gourmet – a quiet luxury where a simple ingredient is purpose-built for impact. Instead of sprawling spreads, one carefully crafted compound butter can define a dish.

The flavour possibilities, too, are expanding well beyond the European canon. Gremolata butter, made with parsley, lemon zest and garlic, is ideal for fish or vegetables. Kombu and seaweed butters – increasingly common in high-end Japanese and Nordic restaurants – bring deep umami to scallops or rice. And Southeast Asian flavours like kaffir lime, galangal or tamarind are starting to appear in restaurant butters and small-batch ranges, offering bright, aromatic alternatives to the usual suspects.

For shoppers, the allure is real. A tub of butter with added flavour bypasses the need for extra pans or chunky spice jars. Butter becomes the dish – not just an afterthought.

So, how are they made?

Most compound butters start with good-quality unsalted butter, softened to room temperature, then beaten with herbs, spices or other flavourings. The mixture is then chilled in a log or tub until firm. A simple blend might include chives, lemon zest and garlic, while more elaborate versions can involve anchovies, roasted vegetables or even chocolate and citrus for sweet applications. Once made, they’re kept cold and sliced or spread as needed.

Tips for home cooks:

• Think of compound butter as flavour infrastructure, not garnish. Toss hot gnocchi with sage butter, swirl anchovy butter into steak sauce or dab basil-garlic butter over grilled vegetables.
• Don’t be afraid to experiment: mix maple into your butter for pancakes, or combine blue cheese and walnut for a bold lamb topper.
• Treat it as you would any fresh condiment – keep it cold and consume within a few weeks, or freeze in portions for longer shelf life.

This is more than a fleeting food fad – compound butters fit a sustainable, flavour-first moment in Kiwi kitchens: easy to make or buy, visually appealing, endlessly adaptable and inherently comforting. So spread the word – and the butter.

Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in food and travel publishing for nearly 20 years. From managing your kitchen to cutting costs, she’s shared some helpful advice recently, including how to prep your barbecue for summer grilling, gourmet hacks for elevating budget ingredients and what toppings to choose for different crackers.