Remembering a little piece of Thailand where heaven was around 762 bends

It took some getting to, this village in the northwest corner of Thailand that we'd heard rave reviews of. A very noisy, bumpy and smelly overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, followed by a half-day journey in a clapped-out minivan that T-shirts touted at our destination would proclaim takes in "762 bends".

Its name in English is spelled with a "P" but Thais say it "Bai", and it has long been known as a romantic weekend getaway for Thai lovebirds, and more lately as a favourite for