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Home / Lifestyle

Food trend prediction: The global ‘fancy’ tinned fish revival is headed this way

By Nikki Birrell
NZ Herald·
11 Jul, 2025 12:00 AM5 mins to read

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Bar Martin in Auckland has got in on the tinned fish action. Photo / Babiche Martens

Bar Martin in Auckland has got in on the tinned fish action. Photo / Babiche Martens

There was a time when tinned fish was synonymous with budget meals and slightly sad desk lunches. But not anymore. In cafes across Europe, conservas – the catch-all term for tinned seafood – are not only proudly served, they’re the stars of the show. A simple plate of anchovies on toast, dressed with lemon zest and good olive oil, is now shorthand for chic. On TikTok, sardines are the new charcuterie.

 Sardines are a popular dish in Porto. Photo / Sarah Pollok
Sardines are a popular dish in Porto. Photo / Sarah Pollok

It’s a shift that marks a changing perception – particularly outside the countries that have long celebrated this form of preservation. In Portugal and Spain, conservas culture never really went out of fashion. Shops like Lisbon’s Conserveira de Lisboa have been selling artfully packaged tins of sardines, octopus and cod since the 1930s. In Madrid and Barcelona, bars serve razor clams, mussels in escabeche and tuna belly in olive oil straight from the tin, often paired with vermouth or a crisp white wine.

But now, countries less steeped in this tradition are embracing tinned seafood not just as a cupboard staple, but as a delicacy. In Britain, the Kent coast wine bar Penelope includes a “tinned fish” section alongside natural wines and small plates. In Denmark’s second city, Aarhus, a hipster co-working cafe offers Nordic-style tapas made from Fangst-brand seafood cans, labelled plainly as “seafood in tins”.

Ortiz is a Spanish brand, operational since 1891 and still going strong. Photo / Carolyn Robertson
Ortiz is a Spanish brand, operational since 1891 and still going strong. Photo / Carolyn Robertson
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The aesthetic – equal parts rustic and refined – has found a natural home on social media. The “tinned fish date night” trend on TikTok shows couples laying out curated platters of trout, spiced squid and crackers as a low-effort but high-impact alternative to cooking. Other creators style sardines on sourdough with lemon zest and herbs, or spoon pate straight from the tin with cornichons and chips. The appeal lies in the contrast – humble ingredients dressed up like delicacies.

It’s a trend that also aligns with a wider shift in consumer habits. With grocery prices climbing and restaurant meals becoming occasional luxuries, there’s growing demand for premium pantry items that feel like a treat. Fancy tinned fish ticks several boxes: it’s shelf-stable, nutrient-dense, often sustainably sourced and lends itself to minimal-prep meals that still feel indulgent.

In New Zealand, the signs are subtle but present. While high-quality imported tinned fish has been available for some time, it’s now being reconsidered in a different light. Retailers such as Farro Fresh, Sabato and Moore Wilson’s stock Spanish brands like Ortiz, Albo and Calippo. Artisan delis such as Cazador also offer a rotating selection of conservas – from sardines in olive oil and lemon, to spicy mackerel fillets and smoked mussels in escabeche.

High-quality imported tinned fish has been available in NZ for some time, but it’s now being reconsidered in a different light. Photo / 123rf
High-quality imported tinned fish has been available in NZ for some time, but it’s now being reconsidered in a different light. Photo / 123rf

The revival also taps into a broader reappraisal of what constitutes “good” food. Once dismissed as cheap or outdated, preserved foods – from pickled vegetables to cured meats – are being recontextualised as artisanal, sustainable and even aspirational. Tinned fish, with its low waste, long shelf life and often painstaking preparation methods, fits neatly into this new value system. It challenges the assumption that fresh is always best – and that luxury must come with a high price or a short use-by date.

The appeal is more than visual. High-quality tinned fish offers a markedly different experience to supermarket-standard tuna in spring water. Anchovies from Ortiz, for example, are line-caught in the Cantabrian Sea, packed by hand and cured for months before canning. Portuguese sardines are often preserved in olive oil with lemon or chilli, then aged in the tin to deepen flavour. Some brands even mark tins with a vintage year – a genuine practice that denotes the packing season and, like wine, suggests the flavour may evolve over time.

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While most premium offerings in New Zealand are still imported, there’s untapped potential for local producers. Given New Zealand’s proud seafood heritage and growing interest in sustainable food systems, the conservas revival presents a compelling opportunity. Tinned pāua, snapper or mussels might one day earn the same artisanal status as their Iberian counterparts.

So, how to get in on the action? Start with the good stuff. Look for tins packed in olive oil or flavoured brines, ideally from brands that prioritise sustainability and traceability.

Conservas packaging is often very design-led.
Conservas packaging is often very design-led.

In the kitchen, simplicity is key. Spread anchovies on buttered toast with a squeeze of lemon, stir smoked mussels through warm pasta, or top crackers with salmon pate and dill. Sardines shine on sourdough with tomato slices and flaky salt. Tinned fish also makes for easy, elevated entertaining – a few choice tins, a good loaf of bread and something crisp to drink is all it takes for a low-fuss aperitivo hour. No heat required.

Whether it’s about eating more seafood, wasting less or simply making pantry staples feel a little bit posh, the conservas revival speaks to a new kind of luxury: one that’s affordable, sustainable and, crucially, delicious. And as more New Zealanders rediscover the charm of dinner in a tin, this global movement seems poised to make itself at home.

Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in food and travel publishing for nearly 20 years. From managing your kitchen to cutting costs, she’s shared some helpful advice recently, including how to prep your barbecue for summer grilling, gourmet hacks for elevating budget ingredients and what toppings to choose for different crackers.

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