Some of New Zealand’s favourite dishes are also the causes of our most frequent kitchen calamities. In this new series, Herald food contributor Nikki Birrell tackles our most common culinary mistakes. We’re all guilty of one...
The dish
Sausages are more than a barbecue snack – they’re part of the fabric of New Zealand life. School fairs, club fundraisers, Saturday sport, even hardware-store carparks: the sausage sizzle is how we fuel, how we gather and often how we raise money for the things we care about. With that kind of cultural weight, surely it’s time we treated sausages with a bit more respect?
Let’s be honest, while sausages are iconic Kiwi backyard barbie fare, we’ve all chewed our way through a few mishaps. So why is this meaty staple so consistently mistreated? We scorch them, we split them, we serve them raw in the middle and call it a rite of passage. But it doesn’t have to be that way. The perfect grilled sausage is entirely achievable – and simpler than you think.
Recipes to try:
A sausage is essentially a casing stuffed with meat and fat. Put it over fierce direct heat and the outside races ahead of the inside. The fat renders, pressure builds and the casing bursts. The result: charred outsides, raw centres and lost juices. Here’s the kicker – pricking with a fork, something many a backyard barbie “expert” insists on to counter a split sausage, only makes things worse. In fact, we ought to add “never prick the sausage” to the “always blow on the pie” hall of fame. All it does is drain the flavour.
Another common mistake is rushing. High flames almost guarantee burnt skins and raw centres. Squashing sausages with tongs is no better – all you’re doing is squeezing flavour onto the grill.
The fix
The real trick is patience. Sausages like gentle treatment. Start them on low to medium heat, let the fat render slowly, and turn them often. Once they’ve taken on colour, move them to indirect heat – the cooler side of the barbecue – and close the lid. This turns your barbecue into an oven, allowing the insides to cook evenly before the outside burns.
In a frying pan, the same principle applies: medium heat, a splash of water or stock, and a lid to trap steam. Let them cook most of the way through before uncovering to crisp and brown.
Feeding a crowd? Give sausages a head start in the oven – 15 minutes at 180C – then finish on the grill. Not essential, but it takes the stress out of making sure they’re cooked to the middle.
Cooking times for different sausages (assuming medium heat and the “indirect heat” or “covered pan with splash of liquid” part does most of the cooking, with the final few minutes uncovered or over higher heat for colour. All times are for fresh sausages, not pre-cooked):
- Thin sausages (chipolatas, frankfurters, slender bratwurst): 10-12 minutes total.
- Standard sausages (Kiwi butchers’ pork/beef, supermarket size): 12-15 minutes total.
- Thick British-style bangers or chunky Italian sausages: 18-20 minutes total.
- Chicken or lean venison sausages: 15-18 minutes total (be extra careful to keep the heat gentle, as they dry out quickly).
Extra tips and flavour enhancers
Not all sausages are created equal. A lean chicken or venison sausage will dry out faster and needs extra care to stay juicy. A fattier pork sausage can withstand a little more heat but still benefits from a gentle start. Thicker British-style bangers take longer than slender bratwurst or frankfurters. The principle is the same – gentle first, then sizzle – but paying attention to type will always reward you.
Condiments and accompaniments to try
Of course, perfect technique takes you only so far. What makes sausages memorable is what you put with them. Slowly caramelised onions are the classic choice; add a splash of balsamic vinegar for depth. Mustards, relishes and chutneys lift everything. Some swear by the simplicity of white bread and tomato sauce, others insist on proper buns, kraut or slaw. However you serve them, the accompaniments matter as much as the sausage itself.
Barbecue timings
- Chicken first – it takes the longest and must be cooked through (juices running clear, no pink meat, ideally 75°C at the thickest part). Start it on indirect heat to cook gently, then finish over direct heat for colour and flavour.
- Sausages second – start gently, then finish with a sizzle over higher heat.
- Steak last – quick-cooking cuts only need minutes, so keep them for the end when people are hungry.
- Fish fillets – oil well, use medium heat and turn once only.
- Vegetables – brush with oil to stop sticking, cut evenly for consistent cooking, and don’t crowd the grill. For skewers, flat metal skewers stop veg from spinning; with round skewers, thread each piece twice so they stay put.
If all else fails...
Even the best of us end up with the occasional disaster. Skins split and shrivelled? Slice the sausages and toss them through pasta or a stew. A little undercooked? Halve lengthways and flash them back on the grill. Too dry? Drop them into a tomato-based sauce and let them revive as a casserole. Dinner is rarely lost, just redirected.
Patience, not punishment. Cook sausages gently, give them time and resist the urge to stab or squash. Do that and you’ll serve sausages that are plump, juicy and properly cooked – not the shrivelled offerings too many of us have learned to tolerate. Sausages will accept many routes to mediocrity, but only one to greatness.
Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in food and travel publishing for nearly 20 years. From managing your kitchen to cutting costs, she’s shared some helpful advice recently, including how to prep your barbecue for summer grilling, gourmet hacks for elevating budget ingredients and what toppings to choose for different crackers.