Starbucks opens fire on cafe tradition in France

By CATHERINE FIELD Herald correspondent

PARIS - One of the bastions of French cafe life - the small, china cup of strong, black coffee - is under assault from a spearhead of American cultural globalisation.

Starbucks opens its first French outlet this week, hoping its fare of macchiato coffee, muffins, salads and cool, stripped pine will sweep away a centuries-old addiction to espresso coffee and croissants in a noisy cafe spiced with the smoke of Gauloise.

The quintessence of squeaky-clean Americana has taken a prime site in the heart of the capital, on the Avenue de l'Opera, to launch its invasion.

The advent of its green-and-white mermaid trademark, comfortable chairs and complementary magazines has ignited a range of instant opinions that are being thrashed out in the capital's traditional corner cafes.

Will milky coffee - "jus de chaussette" (sock juice) - served in a cardboard cup with a plastic lid find an enthusiastic clientele, especially if it is dished up in a cafe that serves no alcohol and bans smoking?

"I don't believe this concept is going to work because nothing can replace the conviviality and sociability of the French cafe," said Bernard Quarter, of the Union of Hotel Industry Trades.

"Every year the number of Starbucks around the world is doubling, but I hoped that here we were protected," said a 22-year-old student. "It is the standardisation that I hate."

Starbucks first planted its flag in Europe five years ago and has outlets in 34 countries. But the complicated relationship between France and the United States, and a declared sensitivity towards all things French, prompted the company's bosses to take their time to prepare for the assault on the French market.

"It is with the utmost respect and admiration for the cafe society in France that we announce our entry," said Starbucks chairman Howard Schultz. "We're not here to compete with the traditional Parisian cafe."

However, With an increasing number of young French people living and travelling abroad, the company hopes its concept of bright, friendly coffee bars will find a warm welcome among those who dislike grumpy barmen and cigarette smoke. Bizard is confident that a younger generation holds the key to financial success, but the figures show that even they haven't completely abandoned the idea of corner cafes. Only 15 per cent of clients to French coffee bars have their coffee to take away. The rest prefer to take a seat and drink it there.

Contrary to France's anti-American image, other large US food chains such as McDonald's and Pizza Hut have also struck it lucky in the French market.

Said one young student: "To me it is puzzling and almost insulting that foreigners should think it a good media story that Starbucks is coming to France. Why should we be regarded as different from anyone else in the world?"