Glencoe House in Inverness. Photo / Supplied
As Europe’s southern hotspots overheat and overflow, Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, is emerging as a cool, cultural base for exploring Scotland’s wild north, writes Naomi Chadderton.
When it comes to international travel, there’s no denying that an increasing number of people are starting to turn their back on popular hotspots. Venice is rationing day-trippers, Santorini is sweltering, and even Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh, can feel overrun during peak times. But a few hours north, there’s one under-the-radar gem that is quietly coming into its own, and for very good reason.
Dubbed the gateway to the Highlands, the compact Scottish city of Inverness is increasingly drawing travellers seeking cooler adventures thanks to its blend of Highland warmth, culture and access to some of Scotland’s most stirring landscapes, and it’s not hard to see why. Despite its modest size (it is home to around just 50,000 residents) it feels both lively and local – big enough for a night at the theatre or a good meal, small enough that everyone still says hello.
Whether you’re walking the banks of the River Ness, which cuts right through the centre, admiring its cluster of handsome Victorian buildings or perusing its many landmarks like St Andrew’s Cathedral and the old Victorian Market, now home to cafés and independent shops, there’s plenty to keep travellers of all ages entertained. What’s more, it’s got an impressive a creative streak too – Eden Court Theatre draws national productions, while weekend food markets showcase everything from Highland cheeses to small-batch gin. Come summer, the Inverness Highland Games will be in full swing, too – expect Highland dancing, caber tossing, strongest man and woman events, piping competitions, haggis hurling and more.
Here we explore where to stay, what to see, and how to experience the Highlands from this increasingly magnetic base.
Be it legendary lochs, whisky trails, wild road trips or hidden bookshops, Inverness offers the perfect mix of adventure, history and charm.
Take a hike
Following the River Spey from the coast at Buckie to Aviemore in the Cairngorm foothills, the Speyside Way is a gentle yet rewarding long-distance hike through woods, villages and whisky country – a peaceful, scenic route showcasing the Highlands’ changing landscapes.
Drive the North Coast 500
Scotland’s answer to the South Island’s Great Coast Rd, the North Coast 500 is a spectacular 830km loop from Inverness around the northern Highlands. Expect winding coastal roads, rugged mountains, castles and beaches along this unforgettable road trip showcasing some of Scotland’s most dramatic scenery.
Hunt the Loch Ness monster
No trip to Inverness is complete without a visit to Loch Ness, home to Scotland’s most enduring legend. Cruise its mysterious waters, scan for ripples from “Nessie”, and take in the unparalleled beauty of Urquhart Castle overlooking the loch.
Sample small batch whisky
Raise a glass at Uile-Bheist Brewery & Distillery, Inverness’ first distillery in over a century. Set on the banks of the River Ness, it crafts small-batch whiskies and beers, offering tours and tastings that celebrate the city’s revived distilling tradition.
Discover history at Culloden Battlefield
Just outside Inverness you’ll find Culloden Battlefield, the site of the 1746 clash that ended the Jacobite uprising. Here you can walk the windswept moor, explore the visitor centre’s immersive exhibits and reflect on a battle that shaped Scotland’s history and identity for centuries to come.
Get lost in Leaky’s bookshop
Housed in a former Gaelic church warmed by a wood-burning stove, Leakey’s Bookshop is a literary treasure trove. Scotland’s largest second-hand bookshop, its towering shelves and dusty charm make it a must-visit for readers and romantics alike.
Explore Inverness Castle
Perched above the River Ness, Inverness Castle commands sweeping views of the city and Highlands beyond. Soon to reopen after major restoration, it will host exhibitions, viewing platforms and gardens – a perfect spot to trace the region’s royal and rebellious past.
From riverside elegance to historic grandeur and boutique luxury, Inverness offers a stylish stay for every kind of traveller.
Ness Walk Hotel
Tucked into lush grounds on the banks of the River Ness, this 5-star boutique retreat blends Victorian charm with contemporary luxury. With 47 uniquely-styled rooms, fine dining at Torrish and impeccable service, it’s one of Inverness’ most serene and elegant stays.
Culloden House
Set on nearly 40 acres of gardens and woodland just east of Inverness, Culloden House is a Georgian mansion-turned boutique hotel where Highland charm meets creature comforts. With 28 individually decorated rooms, delicious cuisine, a rare-whisky bar, croquet lawns, woodland trails and spa services, it’s an idyllic base for exploring the battlefield, distilleries and Highland landscapes.
Rocpool Reserve Hotel
A restored Georgian mansion that marries both style and substance, Rocpool Reserve is Inverness’s boutique jewel. With just 11 bespoke rooms, it offers champagne on arrival, afternoon tea, complimentary evening snacks and, in some suites, private hot tubs, all paired with stylish design and impeccable service.