KEY POINTS:
We could feel the envious stares as we entered the wine-tasting store.
"Now these girls are from New Zealand, so they know their wine," Kathy
McAfee, our Travel with Taste guide through Victoria, British Columbia,
declared as we entered Artisans Wine in central Victoria.
Kathy has been
to New Zealand a number of times and decided we must be
wine experts when she noticed the volume of wine bottles that we Aucklanders put out in our recycling bins.
"You have such a great wine culture there," she enthused.
Or perhaps we just have a drinking culture. After all, it's not what we're drinking. But those in the store are clearly impressed by her
findings.
As my recycling bin reveals, I certainly enjoy a tipple and know my pinot gris from my pinot noir. But as far as the good people at
Artisans boutique wine store were concerned, I could very well have been
Bob Campbell.
So they were very interested, if slightly nervous, to hear our opinions on their wine.
The ultimate test would be the sauvignon blanc, it was decided, given New Zealand is renowned for its savs.
All eyes were on our group as we inhaled the aromas of the wine - doing
our best to look like proper wine connoisseurs - sniffing, swishing and
swallowing. "It's very good," we all cooed.
"Perhaps slightly sharper than our savs back home - it almost tastes like chardonnay to me - but it is lovely," another added.
Three proud faces beamed back at us.
The locals are protective of their product because the Canadian wine industry is still very young. But with a growing movement to
support locally produced goods, wine makers in British Columbia's
Okanagan Valley have a captive market. The result: the industry is flourishing and the awards are rolling in.
Virtually unique to British Columbia is its ability to produce ice wine
consistently every year. This expensive, honeyed nectar, made from grapes left to freeze on the vine and then pressed in their frozen
state, has attracted a worldwide market.
Artisans Wine was one of several stops on Kathy's tasting tour through
downtown Victoria, and we quickly discovered Vancouver Island people
are passionate about two things: the great outdoors and food. Kathy took us on a guided walk to all the locals' favourite merchants,
during which we sampled tea, cheese, meats and chocolate. And a little wine, of course.
As well as offering the perfect opportunity to stuff our faces, Kathy's walking tour was a gentle introduction to the easily-negotiable city and a great way to get our bearings.
Though Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, is a city, it has a quaint, villagey feel to it. The cobbled streets and old heritage buildings painted in various pastel shades are reminiscent of a small seaside town in Britain. Yet this is in stark contrast to the grandeur of the central harbour area, which is framed by two magnificent
buildings - the impressive parliament buildings and the ivy-clad Fairmont Empress hotel.
Though it is a working hotel, the Fairmont Empress, which celebrates
its centenary this year, is also a genuine tourist attraction. Every day
hundreds of visitors indulge in one of Victoria's grandest traditions - afternoon tea at the Fairmont.
It's oh so British, yet there are no pretensions there. Served in the
elegantly restored tea lobby of the landmark hotel, the atmosphere is surprisingly relaxed - although that could have had a lot to do
with the fact there was more champagne being drunk at our table than the
hotel's secret blend of tea.
And though we weren't really in need of more food after our taste tour around the city, the fare on offer was divine.
Award-winning pastry chef D'Oyen Christie worked his magic, ensuring
a memorable experience. For the sake of research, I managed to work my way up from the bottom rung of gorgeous mini-sandwiches to the top rung of delicious sweet treats. I can report the smoked salmon pinwheels
and apricot scones were a particular highlight.
The traditional fare on offer at the Fairmont Empress was anything but
typical of Vancouver Island, however. Those on the island fancy themselves as culinary pioneers, with a strong emphasis on using
locally produced ingredients. It's a theme that runs throughout
British Columbia.
The "100 mile diet", where everything a household eats must come
from within a hundred-mile radius, originated in a town called Mission, not far from Vancouver.
Locally raised and produced food has been called "the new organic" -
better tasting, better for the environment, better for
local economies and better for your health. If tomatoes
aren't in season on Vancouver Island, you won't find them in your
burgers.
It ain't so bad, though. The island's position off the
Pacific coast means there is an abundance of seafood readily available - including, of course, one of Canada's delicacies, wild salmon.
Seafood restaurants are plentiful in Victoria - there is even a floating fish and chip shop located at fisherman's wharf. It's a good idea to buy a little extra, though, as the friendly seals that pop their
heads up alongside the wharf may charm you into parting with a bit
of fish.
Going one step further in its quest to save the environment is
Red Fish Blue Fish.
Built in an old shipping container and nestled in a secluded
spot on the inner harbour, the "upcycled" takeaway bar has an
important commitment to sustainability. Even the food-service materials are either compostable or recyclable, while the "Ocean Wise" label on a menu item assures customers that dish is a good choice for the oceans.
And you won't just find your standard fish and chips here - there are plenty of healthier options on the menu, like tuna taccones and grilled fish sandwiches.
But if you want a true education on the local food movement, an
overnight stopover at Sooke Harbour House is a must. Set against the backdrop of the Olympic Mountains, Sooke Harbour is a 45-minute drive west of Victoria and the stunning scenery is well worth the excursion.
Owned by Sinclair and Frederique Phillip since 1979, Sooke Harbour House is an eclectic bed and breakfast-style accommodation, with each luxurious room featuring a sea view and balcony with an array of original artworks, antiques and books.
The walls in the lobby are adorned with countless awards for
chef Edward Tuson and the restaurant regularly features among Canada's top five eateries. And we discovered why as we sat down to a five-course degustation menu, which left some in our group
declaring it the best meal they had ever eaten.
There is a great deal of creativity in the kitchen, since the
menu changes daily and is inspired by the products that are
brought to the kitchen door by local fishermen, organic gardeners, mushroom foragers, seaweed harvesters and artisan food producers.
Many of the edible flowers, uncommon herbs and native plants come from Sooke Harbour House's own organic gardens, which Sinclair was kind enough to show us around before we ate.
It was then, as I sipped champagne and chomped on a begonia,
that it occurred to me how far my food IQ has come.
Dana Johannsen travelled to Vancouver Island courtesy of Air
New Zealand and Tourism British Columbia.
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand flies direct to Vancouver four times a week during
peak times. More information at www.airnewzealand.co.nz.
Harbour Air runs up to 14 daily float plane flights from Vancouver to
Victoria for C$130 ($192).
WHERE TO STAY
Oswego Hotel, Victoria, has studio rooms from C$195 per night,
including breakfast.
Sooke Harbour House, on the south-west tip of Vancouver Island offers luxury suites from C$325.
FURTHER INFORMATION
Vancouver Island's mild climate allows its residents to pursue outdoor
pleasures throughout the year. The peak season is June through August.
More information at www.travel.bc.ca.