When it comes to character, history and identity, you can't beat larger-than-life New Orleans. This southern city in Louisiana, US, celebrates its famed New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival from April 29-May 8, and it's sure to be one heck of a party.
Catch the beat
With 12 stages and music tents on the go, the festival buzzes to the beat of a huge range of drums. As well as playing host to jazz greats from around the globe, the line-up also features blues, gospel, reggae, world music and experimental sounds.
Over the years, the likes of Dizzy Gillespie, Stevie Wonder and Ella Fitzgerald have graced the festival stage, and more recently, big contemporary names like Pearl Jam, Ed Sheeran and Elton John. This year's headliners include Red Hot Chili Peppers, Erykah Badu and New Orleans jazz favourite Trombone Shorty, alongside classic crooners like Willie Nelson, Stevie Nicks, and The Who.
Southern soul
As a melting pot of cultures including African-American, Cajun, Creole, French, Cuban, Native American and more, the Big Easy is brimming with energy. Much of the city's rich tapestry is expressed through its art and traditions, and the festival gives a taste of all sorts.
Among the many tents at Heritage Square, browsers can pick out sculptures, weavings and leather goods to take home, or catch a demo of metalwork or pottery-making. The Congo Square African Marketplace is where artisans exhibit wares made using ancient techniques, and the Louisiana Folklife Village is the place to go to learn how to knit a shrimp net, watch a pirogue (traditional Cajun canoe) being carved, or see musicians handcrafting accordions.
Food, glorious food
Down in New Orleans (or Nola, as some of the locals call it), there's a sweet treat, seafood delicacy or steaming gumbo to suit all tastes, and those are just the start of it. Jazz festival-goers get to sample a range of traditional eats all under one roof, with everything from alligator and crawfish sausages, to caramel apple cobbler on the menu.
The city's French side is on full display with beignets (fried pastries) and macarons to snack on, while Creole food culture is represented with barbecue ribs, hearty gumbo (stew) and ooey gooey bars for dessert. Seafood fans are in for a feast with local crawfish, catfish, crab and shrimp in the spotlight, but with six eating areas to choose from, there's bound to be something for everyone.
Big Easy vibes
With a music scene that's constantly evolving, borrowing from a range of cultures and taking on a life of its own, jazz is part of what makes New Orleans tick. But when it comes to pinpointing how it all started, the jury's out. Some music buffs say the jazz scene evolved from drumming and voodoo rituals that were common in the city's Congo Square area before the Civil War in the 1860s. Others believe it sprung from a mixture of traditional cultural music and Southern gospel, layered with an innovative spin to create a whole new sound.
These days, New Orleans jazz usually includes a cornet, trumpet and trombone, with the goal of getting the audience on their feet to dance. Outside of the annual jazz festival, it's easy to catch a jam session at jazz clubs dotted throughout the city, including the popular Spotted Cat Music Club, the Polo Club Lounge for nightly concerts and mint julep cocktails, and Preservation Hall for traditional New Orleans jazz and a family-friendly atmosphere.
Travel checklist
To start planning a visit to next year's jazz festival, see nojazzfest.com. For all the city hotspots, see neworleans.com.
Non-US citizens require proof of Covid-19 vaccination to travel to the US (unless exempt from vaccination). All travellers need to show proof of a negative Covid-19 test, taken within 24 hours of their flight. See cdc.gov for details.