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Home / Travel

Train Check: Riding from London King's Cross to Newcastle

Andrew Alderson
By Andrew Alderson
Reporter·NZ Herald·
1 Oct, 2019 01:00 AM3 mins to read

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First Great Western Railway Class 800 Super Express Train. Photo / Matt Buck

First Great Western Railway Class 800 Super Express Train. Photo / Matt Buck

Andrew Alderson lounges back with a few culinary treats while meeting some Cricket World Cup deadlines from London King's Cross to Newcastle, or so he thought...

The train: British Rail Class 800, Hitachi Super Express.

Price: $109 one way.

Duration: In theory, a serene 3hr 2m through the English countryside; in practice, a sweaty 5hr 20m, including 90 minutes stuck at Potters Bar with electrical failure on the edge of the London commuter belt.

My seat: A discreet pair of them at the back of a carriage. From here I could tuck into my stash of Pret a Manger goodies such as a prosciutto and emmental roll, fresh orange juice and slab of chocolate brownie away from prying eyes.

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Fellow passengers: Never noticed them until we broke down and started sweltering on a Sunday afternoon in June. We weren't able to exit for a while because the automatic doors had gone kaput sans electricity. Nothing like regular whiffs of l'eau d'armpit to flare the nostrils.

How full: Most seats taken but it's astonishing how many people fill a train once we'd spilled on to the platform to await a replacement.

Entertainment: Monitoring the whinge-o-meter as we alighted at Potters Bar. Most people, with a particular nod to the families, handled the disruption stoically. I suspect this is where hand-held devices with decent battery life come into their own.

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The service: The conductor was effusive in his apology, flagellating himself and the London North East Railway over the PA at every stop along the way. He gave us instructions on how to get a refund, which I followed dutifully. The cheque must still be in the mail… or cyberspace.

Food and drink: All wolfed by the time the Potters Bar ordeal was over. After that, it was time to go to my backpack and wheel out the Sunday Times.

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Toilets: I have a vague memory of a clean stainless steel bowl, but I used the facilities pre-crisis.

Luggage: Plenty of room for my bag in the racks, and satchel on the adjacent seat.

The terminal experience: It certainly felt terminal at Potters Bar with no ETA on a substitute train and a dying laptop. I didn't linger at Newcastle in the late afternoon.

Would I ride again? Yes. In fairness, that's the first time an overground train has let me down in Britain. Taking the train remains the perfect way to relax with countryside views while getting a jump on deadlines.

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