Barthelemy store in Paris. Barthelemy is one of the neighbourhood’s most charming cheese shops. Photo / Joann Pai, the New York Times
Barthelemy store in Paris. Barthelemy is one of the neighbourhood’s most charming cheese shops. Photo / Joann Pai, the New York Times
There is simply no better way to take in the sights, sounds and tastes of Paris than with a leisurely stroll to the city’s most irresistible florists, bakeries, cheese shops and vintage boutiques, writes Christine Chitnis
This floral-focused stroll in Paris is the favourite of Sandra Sigman, thecelebrated florist and author of the book French Blooms about the distinctive French style of flower arrangement. Just short of 4.8km, it weaves through the gardens, green spaces and flower shops of the 6th and 7th arrondissements.
“I love the French approach to gardens,” said Sigman, 56. “Although the spaces themselves are quite formal in their design, that doesn’t stop people from relaxing and enjoying their beauty.”
Champs de Mars, the park surrounding the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Photo / Joann Pai, the New York Times
Start at Champs de Mars. The park surrounding the Eiffel Tower is always filled with blooms, and if you get there early, you’ll miss most of the crowds. From the park, head southeast on Rue Saint-Dominique to Boulangerie Laurent B, a sweet bakery with an enticing vintage charm. The canele and pain au chocolat are the crowd favourites.
Continue along Rue Saint-Dominique, which will drop you in the centre of Esplanade des Invalides. More of a park than a garden, it offers a stunning scenic walk with museums and monuments everywhere you look, such as the Musee de L’Armee and Napoleon’s tomb.
Leave by way of Rue Saint-Dominique and head east until you hit Rue de Bellechasse. There, on the corner, sits Adriane M. Fleuriste, which boasts an expansive outdoor floral display. It’s as if “the shop itself can hardly contain all the beauty”, Sigman said.
Oz Garden store in Paris. Photo / Joann Pai, the New York Times
The five-minute walk to the next stop is lovely: Head southeast on Rue Saint-Dominique to Boulevard Saint-Germain, then veer off on Boulevard Raspail to Rue du Bac to Le 69 bac, a lovely flower shop whose name echoes its address.
You’ll have to search for it, but you’ll know you’ve found it when you see flowers peeking out of the building and into the street. Follow the blooms down the corridor to the entrance of the shop.
The Esplanade des Invalides in Paris. Photo / Joann Pai, the New York Times
Just a block away, poke into Barthelemy, one of the neighbourhood’s most charming cheese shops. For lunch, stop next door at Le Cafe Pierre Herme. Sit in the courtyard and order the croque monsieur, a tea and a salted caramel macaron, Sigman advised.
Following lunch, it’s time to shop. From Le Cafe Pierre Herme, make your way back to Rue de Bac, where in less than two blocks, you’ll come to La Maison du Bac, a shop dedicated to the art of tablescape, brimming with antique and new vessels perfectly suited for flower arranging.
Continue on Rue de Bac to Rue de Babylone, where on your right you’ll pass Square Boucicaut, a quaint city park with a carousel.
The route from here to the next stop is less than 1.6km, though it takes a series of turns; from Rue de Babylone you’ll take Rue de Sevres to Rue du Four to Rue de Rennes to Rue de l’Abbaye until you reach Rue de Furstemberg and the petite floral shop Oz Garden, which offers a highly curated and unusual selection of flowers and plants.
Astier de Villatte store in Paris, which specialises in antiques and tableware. Photo / Joann Pai, the New York Times
Its organically styled bouquets feel as though they’ve been freshly picked from the garden.
The delightful square surrounding Oz Garden is made up of narrow, tucked-away streets packed with small independent shops, including the tiny and fragrant spice shop, Compagnie Francaise. From here take Rue de Seine to Rue de Tournon — just a short 10-minute walk — and arrive at Astier de Villatte, a lovingly curated shop of antiques and tableware.
Unconventional vases are a great way to add flair to your floral design and here you’ll find beautifully crafted porcelain pieces. Make your way to the back of the shop to see the displays of plates, vases, tureens and more that stretch from the floor to the ceiling.
Visitors enjoy the afternoon sun in the Jardin de Luxembourg in Paris. Photo / Joann Pai, the New York Times
Astier de Villatte faces the Palais du Luxembourg, which places you perfectly for a stroll through Jardin de Luxembourg, a classic Parisian park filled with friends picnicking, couples strolling hand-in-hand and children pushing toy sailboats around the duck pond.
Just like the palace, which was built in the 1610s for Italian-born Queen Marie de Medicis and modelled after the Palazzo Pitti of Florence, the gardens feel royal.
In true French garden fashion, you’ll find precisely trimmed hedges, symmetrical placements of unique flowers and impressive potted urns.
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Distance: 4.7km
Difficulty: Easy
Good for kids: The parks and gardens are ideal for children, but the shops are not child-centred
Time to walk: From two hours to almost five with stops to shop and eat.
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Checklist
PARIS
GETTING THERE
Multiple airlines fly from Auckland to Paris, including Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines, Emirates and American Airlines, with one stopover.
