Savvy travellers explore Thailand's quieter east coast, starting in Trat for island hopping in the Eastern Gulf. Photo / Getty Images
Contrary to popular belief, Thailand island hopping isn’t solely for backpackers. Take the languid, calmer approach by exploring the quieter east coast, writes Ron Emmons.
While most sun worshippers in Thailand head south to the busy beaches of Phuket and Koh Samui, savvy travellers turn east to Trat, then set off on an island-hopping adventure in the Eastern Gulf of Thailand.
Since regular and reliable boat services link offshore islands (weather permitting), it’s easy to explore Koh Chang (Elephant Island) with its lively energy before chilling out on tiny Koh Mak and finally landing in the paradisical setting of Koh Kood.
Ko Chang is Thailand’s second-biggest island, and though it didn’t start developing for tourists until the 1990s, it’s made up for lost time and now boasts all the attractions and facilities a visitor might want.
Soft-sand, sunset-facing beaches? Check. Lush, forested mountains? Check. Fun activities like ziplines? Check. Diving, snorkelling and other water sports? Check. A range of lodgings from budget to luxury? Check. Restaurants, street food and bars on the beach? Check.
Koh Chang’s most popular beaches are at the northwest end of the island, particularly Hat Sai Khao (White Sand Beach), where impromptu parties take place most evenings.
Heading south from White Sand Beach along the west coast, the beaches are less crowded, though Hat Tha Nam, better known as Lonely Beach, is no longer the tranquil enclave it once was.
Away from the beach, it’s easy to arrange a trek into the interior to visit pretty Khlong Phlu Waterfall, while at Treetop Adventure Park near Lonely Beach, visitors can glide like monkeys through the forest canopy on a zipline.
The island is part of the Koh Chang Marine National Park, which includes another 50 or so nearby islands, and diving and snorkelling trips head out every day to nearby dive sites and coral reefs.
Koh Mak is the perfect antidote to Koh Chang’s energetic vibe and it’s easy to find speedboats going there from Bang Bao Beach at the south end of Koh Chang or Hat Kai Bae on the west coast. What makes this tiny island so special is that it’s owned by a small group of families who have developed a charter to prevent the excesses of boisterous tourism.
The main aspect of this charter prohibits vehicle ferries from docking at the island, so there are only a few pick-up trucks owned by residents and the result is an away-from-it-all ambience.
In contrast to Koh Chang’s mountainous terrain, Koh Mak is almost flat and covered with coconut and rubber plantations, so it’s ideal to explore by bicycle or motorbike.
The two main beaches are Ao Kao in the south and Ao Suan Yai on the west coast, both of which are backed by small and mid-sized resorts.
Unlike other Thai islands, Koh Mak has no international hotels, no 7-Eleven stores and no jet skis roaring round the bays.
Even the activities for visitors on the island, such as coconut oil pressing, tie-dyeing, coral planting and beach cleaning with the local chapter of Trash Heroes, are environmentally friendly. In sum, Koh Mak is the perfect slow-life getaway.
The third island in this tour, easily reached by speedboat or catamaran from Koh Mak or the mainland, Koh Kood (sometimes spelled Koh Kut) combines the rugged topography of Koh Chang with the laid-back mood of Koh Mak and still adds something extra.
Perhaps it’s the wild interior or the eye-wateringly expensive resorts tucked away in remote corners - Kiri Private Reserve (aka Soneva Kiri) flies its guests in by private jet, with daily room rates starting from a cool $1700 and reaching $20,000. However, with or without a stay at a high-end resort, the island triggers the wow factor.
The best beaches are on the west coast. These include Ao Taphao, Ao Khlong Chao and Ao Phrao but it’s worth hiring a motorbike to ride up and down the roller-coaster road along the coast to check out even quieter bays.
Though the well-heeled are well catered for on Koh Kood, fortunately there are simpler, more affordable options, such as Mata Guesthouse and Kama Siri Koh Kood, both between $35-50 per night, making a visit feasible for the less affluent among us.
Away from the beach, the Khlong Chao Waterfall is a delightful spot to cool off in the pool at its foot, while the ancient trees known as makayuk and sai yai make a great destination to head for in the rainforest.
Overall, Koh Kood is so effective in endearing itself to all who venture here that most people don’t want to leave, though when they do, a painless catamaran voyage from the pier at Ban Ao Salat whisks them straight to the mainland.
Getting there
Fly from Auckland to Bangkok, then catch a Bangkok Airways flight to Trat which takes about one hour.
The writer travelled at their own expense.