The world’s biggest water fight takes over Thailand’s streets during Songkran. Photo / Getty Images
It is famous for being the world’s largest water fight, and this is what you should – and shouldn’t – do during Thailand’s Songkran festival, writes Ron Emmons.
In mid-April each year, everybody in Thailand goes crazy – locals and visitors alike. It may have something to do with the high temperatures and humidity, as this is the hottest time of year, but the result is always the same. People dress in light, quick-dry clothes, seal their phones in a waterproof pouch, pick up a water pistol or bucket, then go out and squirt or splash anyone in sight, knowing full well they’ll get drenched in return.
It’s called Songkran – the traditional Thai New Year (April 13-15) – and although it sounds a lot like Songkram, which means “war”, the underlying vibe of this spectacular event is warm and welcoming. It’s a time of rebirth, of washing yourself clean of the past and starting afresh and helping others to do the same. Above all, it’s pure fun, and having fun is all Thais’ favourite activity. In 2014, the festival was recognised by Unesco as a form of intangible cultural heritage, as distinct from tangible heritage in the form of historic sites and monuments.
Most Thais perform the same activities during the three days of the festival. These include house cleaning, setting off firecrackers to scare away evil spirits, going to the local temple to wash the Buddha image or joining a parade to do the same, and visiting elderly relatives to pay respect with a trickle of lustral water over the shoulder. Foreign visitors tend to focus more on the squirting and splashing aspect of the festival, though it’s a good idea to wander into a temple compound to sense the communal pulse.
A couple of unusual practices in temples at this time of year are building sandcastles and placing support sticks beneath the bodhi tree – the one with the heart-shaped leaves. The reason for bringing sand is that every time devout Thais leave the temple, they inadvertently take a few grains of sand with them on the soles of their shoes. At Songkran, they bring a bucketful back, make sandcastles and decorate them with colourful flags. The support sticks for the tree of enlightenment are a symbolic gesture of the unwavering strength of their donors’ faith and may remain in place all year.
So, what should you do and not do if you happen to be in Thailand at the time? You can’t avoid getting wet unless you hide under the bed for three days, but you can decide where to be; go to Bangkok or Chiang Mai for a full-on soaking, or a small town or village, such as Lamphun, Ayutthaya or Chumphon for a genteel sprinkling. Be warned that foreigners are prime targets for Thais, as they get extra points for those they hit. For once in Thailand, the beach is not the best place to be as it’s no fun dousing people who are already wet.
Don’t throw water over monks or older people unless you’re joining Thai friends visiting elders. Don’t bother wearing a plastic raincoat because it won’t keep you dry (you’ll soak in your own sweat) but do wear clear plastic goggles if you worry about getting hit by a squirt of water in the eye. Perhaps the greatest aspect of the festival is its potential to foster friendship, but inevitably, some folks get over-excited and become aggressive, shooting ice-cold jets that cause pain. Don’t be one of them. Drinking alcohol is banned in many water-splashing areas, though it’s difficult for policemen to enforce this among the mayhem.
Avoid the temptation to hire a motorbike or scooter during the festival, as the chances of getting hurt are much greater for those who do. It’s easy to get knocked off by a surprise blast from a hidden hose pipe, or to skid while avoiding a gang of spraying kids. Sadly, around 50 people die each day during Songkran, mostly in motorbike accidents.
Do indulge in some delicious cuisine that you can only find at this time of year, particularly khao chae. This delectable dish consists of rice soaked in cold water and then scented with jasmine and served with a variety of side dishes like shrimp-paste balls, stuffed shallots and sweet peppers. Unlike with steamed rice, the side dishes are not mixed with the rice but eaten separately to appreciate the refreshing taste and subtle aroma of the rice.
If venturing to the north, order a taste of local favourites such as nam prik num (a chilli dip), nam prik ong (spicy pork and tomato dip) and sai oua (aromatic sausage), often listed as hors d’oeuvres. One of the most popular desserts at any time of year is mango and sticky rice, but it’s especially flavourful in April as it’s the height of the mango season and many varieties are available. If you’re feeling adventurous, try sour mango with salt and chilli, more popular than the sweet form for most Thais, and wash it down with a chilled fresh coconut juice. Yum.