Woodstock Cotswolds escape: Easy train trip from London for a quiet stay. Photo / Unsplash
An easy one-hour train trip from London, the small town of Woodstock offers all the magic of the Cotswolds without the crowds, writes Alessia Armenise.
I have always thought of myself as a city person and even when living in big cities like Paris, I rarely craved an escape to the countryside.
That all changed when I moved to London. Living in the Big Smoke really isn’t for the faint-hearted and, as much as I love the hustle and bustle of the city, sometimes you just feel like leaving it all behind for a relaxing escape to the country.
Thankfully, there are plenty of places to explore just a train ride away from the city and I, like a lot of people, love a The Holiday-style getaway to a quaint English village.
Sometimes I do wonder if British people see the same charm in their villages as we travellers do. For me, there is nothing more relaxing than spending two days pottering around cobbled streets, shopping for antiques, having afternoon tea in front of the fire in the winter or in a lush garden in the summer, and indulging in lie-ins in a cosy hotel.
And whether you live there or find yourself in London during your travels, it would be a shame to miss the opportunity to experience the quaint magic of the Cotswolds.
Woodstock is one of the easiest villages in the Cotswolds to visit from London, yet it remains far less busy than many of the other towns in the area, which makes it a fabulous choice for a weekend of indulgence and relaxation.
Add it to your list if you are planning a road trip through the English countryside, or, if you are coming from London, you can either drive for a couple of hours or take the train.
I’m not particularly fond of driving from London as the traffic tends to bring out a certain road rage I’d rather keep hidden, so I decide to start my journey by taking the train from Marylebone station (how chic) to Oxford Parkway, and then jump on a 10-minute Uber ride to the centre of Woodstock.
In a little longer than one hour, I’m already unpacking my bag in my suite at The Feathers, my preferred base when visiting this part of the country.
The hotel was refurbished in late 2024 and is now a design-forward haven nestled inside a Grade II-listed 17th-century building. The refurbishment made the hotel comfortable, modern and elegant, but kept the aura of the old times and a cosiness that is expected in a location like this.
Although I’m already eyeing the huge bath, with salts and toiletries by Urban Apothecary, I have a very important appointment in the hotel’s restaurant, where a tower of delicacies is waiting for me.
You can’t go to a little English village and not have an afternoon tea and, thankfully, The Feathers makes a fabulous one.
Since I was a child, I’ve always left the thing I like the most for last when eating and, although I love a good finger sandwich, scones are my favourite when it comes to afternoon tea.
These ones are warm and fluffy inside, and covered in clotted cream and strawberry jam, they are the perfect way to start my 48 hours of bliss.
I have a passion for thrifting in general but, when it comes to small British villages, I love to spend hours in charity shops, trying to find some treasures.
If there is one charity shop I never miss when in Woodstock though, it’s the Save the Children second-hand bookshop, which has plenty of old and new releases as well as a great collection of classic British children’s books that make for a great gift or souvenir.
I’m always on the hunt for Beatrix Potter’s Peter Rabbit to give to every single child in my life.
After a good hour immersed in books, a little stop at Alfonso Gelateria for ice cream is a must when the sun is shining.
Even after having eaten a whole afternoon tea, there is no way I can skip a small pot of dark chocolate and honeycomb.
The perfect snack to enjoy while browsing the many art galleries, like Dantzig and Iona House Gallery, and antique shops on the high street, like Antiques of Woodstock and Antiques at Heritage.
As you might have gathered by now, an escape to the countryside for me is largely centred around eating, and the last part of my first day in Woodstock must continue in the same vein.
I have been told by locals that there is a pub hidden on a small street that I absolutely must try, so I had to oblige in the name of research.
The Back Lane Tavern is just off the main road, in one of those streets that are slightly off the tourist trail but well known to residents.
Inside, it looks like just an average pub, with wooden tables, a nice beer garden to enjoy the warmer days and friendly staff. What I have been told to try though are their small plates, which are apparently the talk of the town.
Starting strong with a glass of Portuguese Vinho Verde and a British goat’s cheese called Rachel, which I recently discovered and now has me hooked, I continue the evening with a stronger choice of wine, an Argentine Malbec and a few delicious bits from the menu: the unmissable triple-cooked chips, herb gnocchi with wild mushrooms, and Korean chicken wings.
To end the night, there is nothing better than a warming sticky toffee pudding. This one is served with caramel miso sauce and vanilla ice cream – truly delightful. The only thing left to do is to roll back to my suite and get some rest before a full day of fun tomorrow.
If there is one reason people go to Woodstock, it is to visit Blenheim Palace, a Unesco World Heritage Site, and the birthplace of one of Britain’s most iconic, albeit controversial, figures, Winston Churchill.
The palace is grand and can take a couple of hours to visit everything, and if you are a history buff, you should definitely consider taking a guided tour.
The palace is sometimes used by today’s Royal Family for official occasions, like the meeting between King Charles III and Ukraine’s President Zelensky in 2024.
If the palace is a must-see, the grounds are my favourite part, and the place where you will spend most of your time if the weather permits.
Visit the walled garden, the Marlborough Maze and take your time going around the large lake and the pond – you might make a few feathered friends along the way.
After spending the morning walking around the palace, it’s time to get back into town to have lunch at the Michelin-recommended restaurant The Nest.
The atmosphere is elegant but cosy, an elevated version of a traditional British eatery, and the food is delicious and comforting, perfect for wrapping up a weekend in the countryside.
The menu changes all the time, but I utterly enjoyed fresh Cornish crab as a delicate starter, a delicious pan-roasted halibut with some crispy potatoes on the side and, to finish, a seasonal rhubarb souffle.
If you are going back to London on the train, this would be the time to head back to Oxford Parkway to catch your ride to Marylebone.
If you are travelling by car, you can still take some time in the afternoon to visit some of the cutest shops in town; Louisa Maybury Home for colourful textiles and home decor, Libby Rak for unique jewellery and Caroline Gibson Prints for affordable original art.