The portly man wildly swings his hands as if conducting a hidden choir, ruddy face scrunched into a frown as he shouts to the large crowd of bus passengers about what side to load their luggage. Or, perhaps he is telling us where to sit, or maybe saying I can’t
Portugal with Intrepid Travel: Why you should visit Portugal with a guide
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Our guide points us around Lisbon, showing us the best spots. Photo / Sarah Pollok
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If you’re like many travellers, you crave immersion when travelling abroad. You want to get right up close to the culture, the people, the way things are done, to revel in the novelty. The challenge is that, while foreign-speaking countries tend to be rich in said difference, we’re always one click removed. A handful of phrases, gestures and blank smiles can only get you so far. It’s possible to make a point or glean information without the words but the mental load can be exhausting as you try to catch the right bus or order a meal. Things can turn panicky too, if there’s a sense of urgency or severity; a departing train you should be on, etiquette rule you’re breaking or allergy that must be catered to.
It’s in these places that language becomes a glass door, ever-so-slightly muting the heart of a culture. It’s also why, as I found, in the chaotic, vibrant country of Portugal, a local guide proves invaluable.
Logistics weren’t the only advantage of having Fernanda Cardoso as our tour leader. Two days later, I find myself in a dim tavern in Castelo Branco, while travelling from Porto to Arraiolos. In this hole-in-the-wall town, we duck into a literal hole-in-the-wall restaurant I would never have discovered alone. Even if I did happen upon it solo, the total lack of English, from the chalkboard menu to the busy tables, would’ve cut an intimidating scene. No one wants to be the obnoxious visitor disrupting locals and vexing waitstaff. Thankfully, Fernanda nabs us a table, translates the specials orders us a feast of grilled cod and juicy olives, finishing with Farófias (a cloud of sweet egg white meringue with custard), all for just €12. At times she waves down the staff, asking for extra bread and checking a dish is vegetarian; things we could have fumbled our way through via Google translate and gestures but with her, felt unassuming and simple.
In Porto, we’re told we simply must try the famous dish, francesinha. Created by a bodybuilder in 1953, the Portuguese take on a croque-monsieur involves thick slices of white bread, Portuguese ham, sausage, and steak cloaked in a layer of melted cheese. Instead of spending hours online searching for the best spot (and always fearing you’ve fallen for a tourist trap), Fernanda announces she’s booked a table at one of the top spots. The 7pm dinner booking is early in Porto but as a local she knows the decadent meal is best eaten a few hours before bedtime.
Even if Brasão Coliseu wasn’t the best spot around, being saved from the tyranny of choice each meal makes every bite taste like the best. The recommendations don’t stop with dinner. Strolling the smooth cobblestone streets in the 9pm light, we take notes as Fernanda points out her favourite spots.
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“This cafe is the oldest in Porto, the coffee is more expensive than usual but it’s beautiful inside,” she says as we pass Cafe Majestic. “Then go here for the best ice-cream in town,” as she texts us the address for La Copa. We’re pointed towards the best Ginjinha, a cherry brandy liqueur, (go to ‘A Ginjinha’ in Lisbon), and viewpoints (skip the overpriced São Jorge Castle and go to the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte instead). While she repeatedly asserts she’s not a tour guide but a tour leader (the priority is logistics rather than facts or history), she is undeniably a trove of intel.
We don’t share every meal or afternoon, which, as a fiercely independent traveller, feels like the best of both worlds. I don’t have to plan transport, book restaurants and hotels, or carry the mental load of planning ‘what to do next’ but also have the autonomy to explore solo, go my own pace or visit attractions and eateries others aren’t fussed on.
From Porto, we speed through the Douro Valley’s rolling vineyards then on to the rugged hills of Côa Valley, watching lush green hills gently transition to flat blonde grassland beneath massive powder blue skies. It takes around four hours to reach Castelo Rodrigo by private van and at 4pm, dozens of cruise ship tourists fill the narrow streets. One hour later, however, the medieval hilltop ruins are silent and it feels slightly naughty, as if our group have hidden in a historic attraction after closing time.
The lock-in is above board, however, as we’re staying at Cisterna, a guesthouse on the hill that began as the owner Anna’s home but now hosts guests for an experience feels plucked from a fairytale.
Like a typical home, there’s a lounge stacked with books and trinkets, a big wooden dining table and bedrooms each humbly furnished with vintage decor. Along with a deliciously cold pool, the property also includes Isobel, a quintessential ‘nonna’ who is the head chef but also our temporary grandmother; warm, stern and determined to feed us as much as possible. We gather on the outdoor patio for dinner as the sunset drenches the surrounding horizon. There isn’t a modern building or powerline in sight, and it’s silent save for birdsong and wind rustling through the trees.
The table groans with chunks of roasted pork and fragrant grilled fish, sautéed broad beans and lashings of olive oil, finished with a traditional almond cake still steaming from the oven. Isobel appears often, topping up our plates, and we’re in near constant laughter as Fernanda translates her witty remarks. Leaning back in my chair, belly full (and a little sore from all the laughing), I know that much like the hole-in-the-wall restaurant or perfect sunset spot, this perfect moment is one I may never have experienced without a little help from a local.
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For more information on Intrepid Travel’s 8-day “Portugal Real Food Adventure, featuring Galicia”, visit intrepidtravel.com
New Zealand Herald travelled courtesy of Intrepid Travel. experienced