Northland valley scenery. Photo / Michael Botur
Want to boast that you’ve biked coast to coast? Then hop on a bike and hit Northland’s Twin Coast Cycle Trail, writes Michael Botur.
If you’re getting fomo when friends gush about Northland’s Pou Herenga Twin Coast Cycle trail, summer is an ideal time to do something about it.
Why not impress your mates by telling them you’ve cycled from one side of Aotearoa to the other?
Truth be told, the trail is just 87km – which is either a lot or a little, depending on how you spin it.
Opened just 10 years ago, the Twin Coast Cycle Trail runs between harbours on Northland’s Pacific and Tasman coasts. It makes the most of rural roads, races, old train routes and purpose-built paths through forests, glades, tunnels, bridges and picturesque fields where cellphone reception drops away and you feel far from civilisation in the best way possible.
It’s accessible for all ages and fitness levels, from groups of school kids to the many retirees who love a soothing bike ride with pedal-assisted, ebikes and shuttle transport at the end of each block.
Many people begin on the eastern side, at the Bay of Islands town of Ōpua, before riding west, in 15-25km segments at a time (hardly a big ask, though the length of each segment doubles if you’re not using a shuttle to get back to your car). Segments should take between one-and-a-half to four hours.
If not starting from Ōpua, the other excellent option is beginning at Kaikohe.
Two friendly Kaikohe operators, Twin Coast Adventures and Top Trail, provide bike hire and daily shuttle transport.
Twin Coast Adventures was bursting with business when I borrowed a bike in late November from owners Shane and Tina Makiri.
Since opening in 2019, Shane and Tina have seen all sorts take on the Trail and come out happy, including many older folks who have jumped on step-through e-bikes after some basic training, safe in the knowledge that after a few enjoyable hours there’ll be a ride home. In fact, a group of 70-somethings did 90km in one day without trouble, days before I arrived. “It’s a whole new world for the active senior,” Tina says.
Sally Thomson and Graeme Ferrier, a couple aged in their 70s undertaking every cycle trail in the country, tell me that the Twin Coast trail – their 18th cycle trip – was “quite doable”.
“On the lowest power setting, you’re still getting a good workout,” Thomsen says. “E–bikes make such a difference, it’s enjoyable as opposed to killing you!
Clearly marked Cycle Trail signs – which give updates every kilometre – help anyone start at any point on the trail. Kaikohe is the trail’s highest–elevated spot – meaning those starting at Kaikohe, will cruise gradually downhill whether headed towards the Pacific or the Tasman.
Ōpua to Kawakawa (11km)
If you start at Ōpua, you’ll start with a long, gravelly less scenic inland route or you can pay $20 to take your bike on the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway. While cyclists used to share the 5km-long track that hugs the coastline, it’s now train only. If you opt for the scenic route, you’ll need to wait at the so-called Whangae Station (which is just a portaloo and picnic table in the middle of nowhere) for train pick-ups. The train visits just a few times a day, so it’s essential to check the train timetable and book your pick-up in advance.
The 90-year-old train – loads of fun for kids – moves slowly over a rail bridge towards the quaint Taumarere Station, from where riders can hop off and cycle freely to Kawakawa, or stay on the train and carry on to the Railway Station Cafe.
Kawakawa to Kaikohe (34km)
If you love long, straight lanes going past overgrown, dilapidated buildings, you’re in for a treat.
This rather flat section delivers wetlands, flowery fields, shady trees and delightful glimpses of rosellas, turkeys, hawks, quails, pheasants, bunnies and peacocks.
There are signs warning the rider to watch out for magpies in spring. This is good advice – my partner and I were both dive-bombed by magpies en route to Kaikohe. All we could do was pedal on quickly and laugh about it.
Don’t let one or two bird-bombs ruin your day – this section takes you through two extremely photogenic rail truss bridges at Tūhipa, free of magpies.
Kaikohe to Ōkaihau (14km)
After an obligatory photo at Kaikohe’s famous Cycle Fence, decorated with hundreds of bikes, you’ll plunge into Middle Earth, with bush, rivers and pine forest fringing the trail before you’re taken through a dank and very fun rail tunnel.
The section around muddy Lake Ōmāpere is unremarkable, and there are more views of cows than the lake, though it’s not long before you’re at Ōkaihau – where the best bits begin.
Ōkaihau to Hōreke (28km)
It’s all downhill from Ōkaihau – in the best way possible.
The tiny town offers old-fashioned charm – a historic tunnel, antique machinery, the rockabilly nostalgia of the Kiwi Kai cafe, and the unmissable Settlers Way Country Store, where owners Annie Blackmore and Jackie Poole sell Kiwi-made gifts, local produce, real fruit ice cream and giant lollipops. If lingering in the pretty mountaintop town – with its views of the Puketi Forest’s vast valleys – consider spending a night in a refitted train carriage at the Ōkaihau RailStay.
Heading west, the trail descends switchbacks and slopes, following a Tolkien-esque babbling brook down the mountain. Highly recommended is a lunch stop at the Lily Pond, a picnic spot on a remote farm, decorated with tūī, dragonflies, flax and lotus flowers.
You’ll next pass through the friendly chickens and agricultural museum of Snow’s Farm before hitting mangroves, which means you’re at sea level for a flat final 10km.
Passing Ngāpuhi Māori communities and several marae of the hapū Ngāti Toro, the last segment is seaside mangrove boardwalk before ending at the historic Māngungu Mission house at Horeke. Here, you can enjoy panoramic views of the Hokianga Harbour and get a treat from the cafe while collapsing in a sweaty heap on the lawn.
It’s then time to pat yourself on the back and think “Wow – I just cycled from the Pacific to the Tasman and it wasn’t even that hard."
The trail is free and open 24/7.
Twin Coast Adventures | Full day e-bike + shuttle $165, or $100 for e-bike only. Full-suspension mountain bikes are $130 for bike + shuttle, or $65 for bike only. No e-bikes are available for kids.
Top Trail | Standard Bike + Shuttle $115/person $85 per child. Ebike + Shuttle $180/person.
The writer cycled courtesy of Twin Coast Adventures.