Uluru Camel Tours is open all year round for visitors to come and have a short ride and explore our camel museum and saddlery. Photo / Tourism NT/Plenty of Dust
Cling on to the coastline all you want, but if you’re after an Australian holiday that leaves a longer impression than your sandy footprints seek the Red Centre, writes Katie Harris.
I like the heat.
I like the warmth of sun on my (well-sunblocked) skin, the comfort of knowing a jacket won’t be necessary and the feeling of slipping out of a pool without bracing for chilly air.
But even I believe there are limits. Sure, the heat is lovely, but in Auckland usually I tap out in the early 30s, assuming anything after is a good reason to clock off early for a cold one. That was until I spent a week in Australia’s Northern Territory. Where it’s not just hot, it’s dry.
And it’s drop-dead beautiful.
My first stop, Alice Springs, hit me like 5am does after a big night. Parched, looking for the nearest source of water, but knowing I’ve ultimately had a good time. After checking into the Crowne Plaza, and checking out the restaurant, Ormiston Gorge is my number one priority.
About an hour-and-a-half west of Alice sits the cool water hole framed by bright orange rock. Once there, and reassured there were no crocs around, I let the cool water wash out the day’s travel stress. Unlike New Zealand rivers, it was warm to the touch, but not in a gross way. It’s the kind of warmth you could lounge around in all day without getting a goosebump.
As we ventured further into the Territory, the wildlife was more confident. Wandering camels canvassing for snacks roam freely, cows on wide-open stations came roadside to say hello and birds with colours I’d never seen before in nature made themselves at home near our accommodation.
Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Tour
En route to our next spot, Kings Canyon, we made a pit stop at the Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Tour.
I used to think I knew a thing or two about Australia. They are our neighbours after all. But, like many in both Aotearoa and Australia, my knowledge of the area’s traditional landowners and their history is inadequate at best.
So it was a privilege to experience the tour, which was created in 2015 by Peter Abbot and his family to share knowledge of local bush tucker, art and medicines used by the Luritja and Pertame (Southern Aranda) people.
“We thought deeply about preserving our heritage and culture where our younger generations of our aboriginal people, our young ones, are not tending to know about our culture. So we said we needed to do something. So we started our own business and our cultural tour.
“We wanted to show our Australian and international visitors our rich culture.”
He told me the most rewarding part of the tour was seeing guests leave with the “wow, this is great” feeling.
Kings Canyon
I’m unashamedly obsessed with this place.
After spending a few hours outdoors at the Karrke tour, we were well and truly ready for a dip in a pool, and Kings Canyon brought the goods.
Besides the Kings Canyon Resort pool, we spent our time here hiking the canyon which rivals that other (Grand) one, visiting the newest Bruce Munro Installation and taking a chopper ride over the canyon.
Kings Creek
Just down the road, a shorter drive than Grey Lynn to Auckland Airport in light traffic, was our next stop: Kings Creek Station.
It’s a real-deal country station. The founder even dragged his wife out there when there was no working water, housing or sewerage to speak of.
Nowadays though, things are a little fancier. Instead of camel wrangling, the great beasts are now available on the cafe’s menu, or if you’re like me and don’t eat meat, some of them are chilling in an enclosure waiting to take visitors for a ride.
I hate to admit it, but I’m not much of a barbeque gal. Although I wouldn’t say no to a grilled tofu skewer, the whole getting the gas, marinating the veges and starting the thing has, up until this point, put me off a career in grilling.
Arriving at our luxury glamping tents equipped with a pre-prepped meal ready to go on the barbecue I was pretty excited. It only took a few words of encouragement from lovely host Ash to work out how to turn it on and I was away. Turns out I’m quite into being behind the grill, especially one with a view over Kings Canyon and sitting next to a glass of red.
Luxury tenting has been having a moment for a few years now. Yet the practicalities of it have always irked me. Where do you go to the bathroom? How do they keep it cool? Why is it better than a hotel?
Now I finally have all the answers. At least for the Drovers Dream tents in Kings Creek anyway.
The room itself has canvas walls on two sides, but instead of the usual fly I’m used to wrangling with each time I leave a tent there’s a glass door allowing for maximum sunset viewing. It’s got an aircon, a fridge and a bathroom built on solid ground in a connecting room.
Uluru
Capping off my time in the Outback was Uluru.
Everyone always talks about how beautiful Uluru is. Don’t get me wrong, it’s stunning. But what they don’t tell you, is how remarkable the cultural and dining experiences are too.
There are two dinners both locals and visitors rave about. I’m in love with both. On our first night in Uluru our group, along with about 50 others, loaded ourselves into a bus and headed into the desert. In hindsight, white jeans were not a good idea, but at least you can learn from me. Once we arrived the red sand dunes gave way to a formal dining area and attendants handing out champagne (or soda for the little ones) as the sun set. Depending on your group size you might be seated at a table with others, which was the case for us.
During the meal we were entertained with a didgeridoo performance, speeches by the chef and a star talk, which was particularly enthralling for the two children at our table.
Once dinner, dessert and our after-meal drink had wrapped up, we were taken down to the field below to wander through the light installation at our own pace.
Coming back on the bus, I thought nothing could top it. The mood was on, the food was incredible and the installation unparalleled, in my opinion.
The next night, at Tali Wiṟu, meaning beautiful dune, proved otherwise.
Before the bus even made it out of the resort our evening proved eventful. Just as we were winding our way down the drive, a 4x4 flagged us down. A young couple, it emerged, were running late because he had just proposed. And she had said yes.
The whole bus cheered, and collectively agreed that the newly engaged pair had a good enough excuse for being late.
I had seen Tali Wiṟu was described as a magical night, something I thought was a hyperbole until I got there.
We were again greeted with bubbles and canapes, but the intimate four-course dinner was in a class of its own, infused with native ingredients.
Each dish was served with care, complex dietary requirements were catered for and our server sought not only to ensure we got what was ordered, but also we knew where it came from.
By the time our meal, dimly lit by small table lamps, and the drinks were finished, it felt like we’d become family for the night.
The whole bus ride home we sang to 80s classics, continued cheering for the newly engaged couple and even got the driver to do another lap so we could sing a final song.
Camels
I don’t really see myself as a camel rider. I like camels, they have adorable faces, cute humps and fat padded feet that I just love to look at. Riding one though? Before jumping aboard my camel, named Dr Phil, I asked our guide Bert whether the camels liked their jobs. After a quick cuddle and a reassuring groan, I knew the good doctor was on board.
Bearing in mind the sunrise wake-up and the fact we’d had several bottles of wine alongside our four-course Tali Wiru dining experience the night before, my group were relatively chipper.
We rode slowly as the sun came up, Bert guiding us and providing an Outback and camel history lesson.
There’s a lot of hype around Australian city holidays - shopping trips to Sydney, surfing in Perth, and sunshine in the Gold Coast - but after spending a week in the Northern Territory, I reckon it’s time we Kiwis realised there’s much more to Australia than the beaches.
GETTING THERE
Air NZ, Qantas and Jetstar all fly non-stop from Auckland to Sydney. From there, it’s a 3-hour, 20 minute flight to Alice Springs.
DETAILS
northernterritory.com
The chef chats to Herald Travel about unforgettable foodie experiences in Aotearoa.