From its stellar restaurant scene to its arty vibes and quirky backstreets, it's easy to fall in love with Adelaide, writes Jessica Wynne Lockhart.
I'm sitting in the back of a pedicab when my driver takes a sharp turn down what looks like an entirely unremarkable alleyway. He stops to point out what I would have never noticed on my own. There, hidden in Adelaide's backstreets, is Australia's oldest surviving mosque, first built in 1888. It may be my fourth trip to the compact city of Adelaide, but I'm learning there's still plenty to discover.
With the famed wine regions of McLaren Vale and the Barossa only a short drive away, and the wildlife mecca of Kangaroo Island not much further, it can be easy to mistake Adelaide as a convenient gateway to other adventures. But make no mistake—this is a city worth more than just a stopover.
Adelaide's proximity to the country's best fruit-growing and seafood-producing regions has resulted in a culinary scene that rivals Melbourne and Sydney. And though it has strong historic roots—sitting on the traditional lands of the Kaurna people, the planned city was established in 1836 by free settlers—it's known for its progressive attitudes and innovation.
Adelaide is home to the second-largest Fringe Festival in the world, but it doesn't rest on its laurels. Known as the Festival City, it's constantly reinventing itself, including last year's launch of the annual Illuminate Festival, which celebrates music, technology and light.
Ready to plan your own urban getaway? Here are some of Adelaide's best new experiences.
Go on a street art adventure with EcoCaddy
Built on a grid, Adelaide's square-shaped CBD only takes about half an hour to cut across by foot. But any good urban explorer knows that the most direct route isn't necessarily the most interesting one. Avoid getting blisters by booking a tour with EcoCaddy, who will let you in on the city's secrets via an electric-assisted bamboo-bodied pedicab. My top tip? Ask your driver to take you down Frank's Lane, named for a barber who has been cutting hair here since 1957. You can see him hard at work underneath a mural of his likeness. Ninety-minute tours start from A$185 for two adults. ecocaddy.com.au
Light
Far more than just a restaurant, Light is a non-profit contemporary art and technology space, which plays regular host to interactive art installations, live music performances, and festivals. But you've come here to eat, and eat you will: The complex's cafe, Little Mission, serves up fresh juices made from produce sourced daily from the nearby Central Market.
Then there's Aurora, which is your night-time dining venue. This is where you'll find chef Brendan Wessels (formerly of McLaren Vale's renowned d'Arenberg Cube) chargrilling at the purpose-built braai. And finally, for a nightcap, there's Beags, an outdoor bar and dance venue. No matter which you choose, the proceeds will be invested back into supporting the development of Adelaide's arts community. lightadl.com.au
Restaurant Botanic
After an extensive renovation and rebrand, Restaurant Botanic reopened its doors in July 2021, headed up by chef Justin James, previously of the Michelin-starred Noma in Copenhagen. In the heart of Adelaide's 51-hectare Botanic Garden (which I'd argue is Australia's finest, with its picturesque Palm House), the restaurant focuses on native ingredients harvested directly from its surroundings, such as Davidson plums and fallen bunya-bunya branches. Reservations are required and most remarkably, most dietary requirements (even fructose-intolerant) are catered for. https://restaurantbotanic.com.au/
Fugazzi Bar & Dining Room
Also new is Fugazzi Bar & Dining Room, a 185-person restaurant on Leigh St. Run by husband-wife duo Max (named young chef of the year in 2018) and Laura Sharrad (who gained her nickname "pasta queen" when she became the runner-up on MasterChef), the menu pays homage to their Italian heritage. Don't miss the "Roman Vegemite"; a spread of Sicilian anchovies, whipped butter and lemon finger, or the wood-roasted Murray cod from South Australia's waterways. fugazzi.com.au
Hotel Indigo
Hotel Indigo may be part of a global brand, but every detail in its first Australian outpost is carefully designed to reflect the city in which it is located. Copper elevators pay homage to the state's mining industry, while each of the rooms features a colourful poster from one of Adelaide's arts festivals. Even the colour in the main dining area is symbolic; it's identical to the shade of pink shorts worn by South Australian premier Don Dunstan on the steps of Parliament House in 1972. (The famed shorts are on display in the Centre for Democracy in the Institute building on Adelaide's North Terrace.)
After exploring the neighbouring Central Markets, round out your stay by making your way up to the hotel's rooftop bar, the city's highest: Merrymaker. Currently Adelaide's after-work "it" spot, it's where you can sample South Australian gins and gaze out across the Adelaide Hills. adelaide.hotelindigo.com
For more on Adelaide, see southaustralia.com
For a taste of the real South Australia, head to its bustling market stalls.