The Tiwi Islands offer a rare insight into the Aboriginal way of life, writes Phoebe Smith

White smoke plumed into the air so thick I could no longer see beyond it, while the rhythmic sound of clap sticks rent the air like a heartbeat. The scent of burning eucalyptus leaves filled my nose, reminding me of the Vicks VapoRub rubbed on my chest as a child when I was ill, while the humid air felt damp against my skin.

As the all-encompassing vapour began to dissipate, I could see my guide Thaddeus's outline begin to appear like a spectre. He

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