Calabria’s low crowds, local food and natural beauty make it a smart alternative to Amalfi. Photo / Allesia Armenise
Swap the overcrowded spots like Puglia and the Amalfi Coast for the charming villages and crystal-clear waters of Calabria, local Alessia Armenise writes.
I step off the flight to Lamezia Terme, Calabria, and immediately breathe in the familiar Mediterranean summer smell – a gorgeous mix of flowers, heat and sea breeze.
I was born in Calabria, and I return every year during the warmer months to escape the unbearable heat of summer in London. Each time, I wonder how this place has remained such a well-kept secret.
For most of my adult life, I have lived outside Italy, and every time someone asked me where exactly I was from, I always had to be very specific, as no one ever seemed to know where Calabria was. I’ve grown so used to it that now, when people ask me, I simply say I come from ‘the toe’ of Italy, as it saves me from being quizzed about Puglia, Naples or Sicily as they try to figure the geography out.
Things changed slightly in the last few years when Stanley Tucci decided to become a food guru and reconnect with his Calabrian roots, and low-cost airlines added a few cheap flights from big European capitals like Paris and London.
Still, we are very far from the crowds of people queuing to visit Positano or packing the streets of Rome and Florence. Calabria in the summer remains an Italian holidaymaker’s playground with a rough and authentic soul that makes it both incredible and challenging to navigate.
As a local, I wish to both keep it a secret and share it with the world, but ultimately, I want people to experience this magical place the way I do. So, here are my favourite places to visit in the region, from charming hilltop villages and stunning beaches to mountain peaks and national parks.
I’m not exaggerating when I say that this is my favourite place in the world. Many villages are wonderfully pretty in Calabria, but for me, nothing beats the view you get after hiking the hill leading up to the top of Fiumefreddo Bruzio’s old town. If you are not a fan of climbing a mountain of stairs (literally), you can drive up, and the experience is just as spectacular.
This village is often ranked as one of the prettiest ones in Italy, and the reason becomes clear as soon as you step onto the cobbled stone streets. The castle is a striking place to visit, both during the day and at night, as it overlooks the vast expanse of the Mediterranean Sea and the many villages along the coast. The best view, though, is enjoyed from the main square, where you can take in the scenery from the terrace or sit down and start your evening with an Italian aperitivo.
Where to stay: This village is tiny, and there are no luxury resorts, but plenty of family-owned businesses. If you prefer to stay in the old town, Residenza d’Epoca Borgodifiume is a fabulous option. To be close to the beach, Airbnb is the best bet.
Where to eat: The place is small but mighty when it comes to food. ConVivio Enosteria is a restaurant that embodies the concept of slow food, serving traditional dishes with a twist, all while utilising local produce, and it’s the perfect place to have a romantic night filled with delicious Calabrian wine. For something more rustic, A Putiga degli OstiNati makes mouth-watering sandwiches, while Braceria DiVino is perfect for meat lovers.
This side of the region is much more popular with foreign tourists, who are drawn here by the well-deserved fame of the gorgeous village of Tropea. There is always a reason why things get popular, and Tropea’s popularity is completely justified – you should go there and admire the beautiful Santuario di Santa Maria dell’Isola, built on a rock, surrounded by the shimmering sea.
Once you are on this side of the region, though, don’t forget to visit the equally stunning Pizzo, which is only a 30-minute ride away and well worth a short trip. You can take an Ape tour, the Italian version of a tuk-tuk, or stroll around on foot, but whatever you do, make sure you stop at Belvedere, the oldest gelateria in town. Here you must try the famous “Tartufo di Pizzo”, a handcrafted ball of hazelnut gelato with a heart of melted chocolate.
Where to stay: The best place to stay in the area is Villa Paola, an adults-only resort located in a former 16th-century convent that boasts incredible views of the coast.
Where to eat: In Pizzo, head to Hedò restaurant for fresh fish and scrumptious pasta dishes. In Tropea, visit Premiata Forneria for pizza, Osteria della Cipolla Rossa for simple yet well-executed dishes, or Quei Bravi Ragazzi for good food and a great atmosphere in the old town.
In a country where you can find the Dolomites and the Alps, nobody thinks of heading south for a mountain holiday, but Calabria is a mountainous region, and there is plenty to see and to do at 2,000 m above sea level.
The protected Pollino National Park is a haven for those seeking an active holiday year-round, as you can free climb, hike, raft and ski.
In the Sila National Park, you can go horseback riding, hike and canoe or paddleboard on the lake, among many activities available. However, my favourite activity is taking the old steam locomotive (Treno della Sila), enjoying the view and indulging in copious amounts of grilled meats and local cheeses.
You can also explore the area via scenic cycle paths, which show you Calabria’s inland beauty that goes far beyond the dazzling Mediterranean Sea.
Where to stay: Near Pollino National Park, stay at La Locanda del Parco or B&B Lao. When staying at the Sila National Park, I suggest La Corte dei Pini. Don’t expect anything fancy, just a warm and cosy atmosphere and very good food.
Where to eat: When visiting Pollino, stop by Catasta for a simple and hearty lunch and even some shopping if you are so inclined. In Sila, head to Al Paninazzo Silano or La Locomotiva, where you can get a sandwich or a simple and traditional sit-down lunch.
