Panoramic views across Lake Taupo from Tokaanu Wharf. Photo / Dreamstime
Panoramic views across Lake Taupo from Tokaanu Wharf. Photo / Dreamstime
There's more to do on the tranquil southern shores of Lake Taupō than hunt for wily trout. Ceana Priest shares some less-touted highlights that don't require a fishing rod this summer.
Never mind that everyone in Tūrangi seems obsessed with fishing; avid anglers debating nymphs and streamers, or the vastarray of motels named with a nod to the township's passionate pastime. But if you didn't bring a fishing rod, no problem. Leave the rainbow trout hiding in the shallows of the sparkling Tongariro River, and head towards nearby Pīhanga Maunga. In Māori mythology, this ancient, forest-clad volcano captivated the region's most prominent peaks. The besotted Tongariro, Taranaki, Tauhara and Pūtauaki mountains passionately fought to win her affections until Tongariro succeeded and banished the other mountains from the volcanic plateau. Today, this ecological retreat hides an ancient crater filled with the crystal-clear waters of Lake Rotopounamu. For a quick explore, allow a one hour return to the lake or two hours for the six-kilometre loop. You'll spot the walkway entrance after cresting Te Ponanga Saddle. Or, for less energetic folk, the scenic lookout halfway up the saddle road is worth a detour for panoramic views across Lake Taupō and the perky Mosquito Hill/Maunganamu encircled by the Tokaanu Tailrace Canal. After taking in the sights, finish the day with a soothing dip under the stars in the thermal waters at Tokaanu Thermal Pools.
The magical, moss-draped Kiko Loop Track. Photo / Ceana Priest
Nestled near the base of Kaimanawa Forest Park, this rugged forest with its magical moss-draped trees and a rousing chorus of native birds is an adventure of two halves. From the car park, the path sidles past regenerating forest ravaged for its red and silver beech from the 1930s. But then virgin beech forest appears, with thousands of epiphytes perched in the towering canopy. Youngsters can easily navigate this undulating trail with its small gullies and bridges. Keep an eye out for the inquisitive North Island robin. This walk is relatively isolated, so bring a first aid kit and warm clothing. Allow 60 to 90 minutes to complete the loop.
Location: 13 kilometres north of Tūrangi, turn off Sh1 on to Kiko Rd. Follow the well-graded gravel road for 17km to the car park. Walking and mountain biking only. No dogs.
Cheer on anglers on the Tongariro River Loop, New Zealand's trout Mecca. Photo / Dreamstime
Tongariro River Loop Walk | Tūrangi
This one-hour-loop follows the rambling Tongariro River. It is part of the longer Tongariro River Trail, which at 15km long is best tackled by jumping in the saddle for a sedate two-wheeled adventure. But if you are pressed for time or have younger adventurers, the shorter loop still crams in plenty of highlights near Tūrangi, including the must-do lookout. Buggies and bikes are welcome on the loop, although you'll need some decent arm strength when pushing buggies up the grunty lookout path. But the views are worth it, with Pīhanga Maunga sitting prettily on the horizon and plenty of anglers to cheer on as they try their luck in the crystal clear waters below.
Location: The Major Jones suspension bridge is an easily accessible starting point on Tahāwai St. Dogs on leads.
The vast Te Matapuna Wetlands. Photo / Project Tongariro
Motuoapa Cliff Lookout Walk | SH1 Motuoapa
Head to the top of the volcanic cliffs behind Motuoapa for panoramic views of the vast Te Mātāpuna Wetlands. Unfortunately, only glimpses of this 1500-hectare wetland wedged beside State Highway One and Lake Taupō are visible as you drive past on State Highway One. But from the lookout, this diverse habitat, which is home to globally threatened species of birds, can be admired. An impressive volunteer effort by Project Tongariro is underway to protect this taonga for future generations. Allow 10 minutes return.
Information: Tangitū St, Motuoapa Village, approximately 10km north of Tūrangi. Only suitable for walking. Dogs allowed.
The crest of Te Ponanga Saddle, South Taupo. Photo / Dreamstime
Tokaanu Wharf | Tokaanu Village
This 260-metre-long slice of kiwi transportation history harks back to the 1800s when steamers regularly chugged across Lake Taupō before roading networks stretched north. It is one of the country's oldest structures and was the departure point for passengers and goods sailing to Taupō. The nearby thermal pools at Tokaanu were a popular rest stop for tourists arriving by stagecoach from Waiōuru. Many travellers stayed overnight to enjoy the soothing waters before continuing their journey. Today, the restored wharf is a picturesque location to dangle a fishing line or spread out a family picnic on the calm shoreline nearby.
Location: Wharf Rd, Tokaanu
The battle-scarred Te Porere Redoubt. Photo / Ceana Priest
Te Pōrere Redoubt | SH47 Tūrangi to National Park
Overshadowed by Mount Tongariro, these two impressive redoubts were the site of the last major battle of the New Zealand Wars in 1869 between Māori leader and guerrilla fighter Te Kooti and Government soldiers. Despite the bloody conflict, Te Kooti avoided capture before being pursued as he headed north. The tower has a bird's-eye-view of the battlefield, which is considered wāhi tapu/sacred, so avoid climbing on the redoubt walls. Forestry endeavours surround this well-preserved pocket of history so take care driving on the gravel road to the car park.
Information: The 40-minute return walk starts from the sign-posted car park near the junction of SH47 and SH46.
Ceana Priest is the author of family-friendly Outdoor Kid guidebooks. outdoorkid.co.nz
