Tuatapere's Hump Ridge Track is spectacular. Photo / Supplied
Tuatapere's Hump Ridge Track is spectacular. Photo / Supplied
In the deep south Elisabeth Easther learns about possibly the most hospitable town in this country, where a new butcher could restore its reputation.
In Southland, 9km from Te Waewae Bay and 87km from Invercargill, surrounded by a horseshoe of mountains, Tuatapere is the last New Zealand town to see the sun set.
Origin of name: Originally called Papatotara, it was later named Tuatapere from "tua", meaning a ceremony performed before a gathering, and"tapere", a gathering for singing songs and playing games.
Claim to fame: For years Tuatapere was known as the Sausage Capital of New Zealand, but the butchery closed in January, so a new point of difference needs to be found. Or a new butcher.
Town mascot: The southern rata, a native tree with beautiful flowers. Thanks to Justin Lewis of Green Machine, the native nursery, locals are planting them by the barrowful. Pretty today, in 100 years they'll look stunning.
Famous locals: Dr Eric Elder was the GP for close to 50 years and is revered by the community.
Town fiesta: In February, Stump the Hump begins at midnight with entrants walking all 62km of the trail in 24 hours. It's not a race, though, and anyone caught running will be fed to the taniwha. Tuatapere Summer's Day, the next day, is packed with arts, crafts and entertainment.
Here for a short time: Take a spin on Wairaurahiri River, collect geological treasures on Gem Beach, enjoy the picturesque craggy cove of Cosy Nook or watch the sunset from Monkey Island.
Best reason to stop: The unspoiled wilderness, warm hospitality and the fine cuisine at Last Light Lodge.
Kids love: The bush walk in Tuatapere Domain. Burn off energy and embrace nature without leaving the township. Monkey Island, Gem Beach and Clifden Caves also are popular with nippers.
Best park: Tuatapere Domain is a densely forested treasure.
Best walk:Hump Ridge Track's challenging three-day loop walk follows the coast, climbs mountains and passes viaducts. You may even see Hector's dolphins and whales. Do it independently or on a guided walk. You can even have a helicopter deliver your bags.
Best view: The Takitimu Ranges look magnificent when you gaze north from town or drive south to McCrackens Rest for breathtaking views of the Southern Ocean and Te Waewae Bay.
Best place to pull over: Stop at Gem Beach and hunt for hydrogrossular garnets and gold dust.
Best swim: Take a dip in Waiau River in the Domain or drive 10 minutes north and swim near the historic Clifden bridge. Tuatapere Pool, open in summer, was saved from closing four years ago when locals put together a fundraising calendar that featured residents posing in the buff with artfully placed props providing modesty. In summer, swim in the sea - Monkey Island and Cosy Nook are both popular spots.
Spectacular views on the Hump Ridge Track. Photo / Supplied
Best museum:Tuatapere Bushman's Museum is full of fascinating accounts about the early settlers when the area was known as The Hole in the Bush.
Sporting chance: Tuatapere Sports Day has been held every New Year's Day for over 100 years. It's not big or fancy but, by hokey, it's fun.
Cream of the coffee: Craig at Last Light Lodge makes seriously good coffee.
Baked: Last Light again - they bake everything from scratch, all the classics from the Edmonds Cookery Book, no preservatives, no packets, just like you'd do at home, only you don't have to do the dishes. They also grow organic vegetables and berries, and make preserves, jams and pickles.
Best eating: The Hungry Hippo does fine fish and chips, and Yesteryears (closed six months of the year) is a charming joint packed to the rafters with old china and enamelware. The owner, in her 70s, is a great cook and focuses on good, old-fashioned, home-cooked food, including scones cooked on a coal range. Orepuki Beach Cafe is also a winner. They raise their own sheep and cows for the menu.
But you can't beat: Last Light Lodge Cafe's dozens of excellent dishes, from eggs bene to blue cod and everything else between.
Wet your whistle: Mix with the locals at the Waiau Hotel or get signed in at the Town and Country Club, with its retro decor and roaring log burners, cheap beer and salt-of-the-earth locals.
Best adventure: Clifden Caves are fantastic and free. But to really get to grips with the region, you'll hike the Hump Ridge Trail or South Coast Trail, include the Wairaurahiri River jetboat trip while you're at it, or throw in a ride with world-famous helicopter pilot Dale Green.
Best-kept secret: On the southern side of historic Clifden Bridge you'll find a beautiful grassy bank backed by limestone cliffs. There you'll be protected from the wind and found by the sun. The kids can play in the calm waters and rock pools, and strong swimmers can cross to the other side for a dip in the current where it's deeper. Absolutely magical.
Wildlife: Aside from the locals who can be a lively bunch, you'll also find deer and wild pigs. There's great hunting here, if you're that way inclined.
Safety warning: The weather can be harsh so, if you're tramping, keep your eye on the conditions and take adequate gear in case it turns nasty. Tell someone where you're going and when you'll be back.
Visitors say: Where is everyone? This place is so beautiful.
Locals say: Don't suppose you're a butcher, are you?
Thanks to Craig Rutland for painting the most colourful picture of Tuatapere.
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