Two of the Pyramids of Giza. Photo / Lauren Thomas
Travelling around Egypt is not for the faint-hearted, but the country is certainly a bucket-list one. For those eager to see it solo, a river cruise may be the perfect approach, writes Lauren Thomas.
There’s a famous saying in Egypt: whoever drinks from the Nile is destined to return.
While drinking from it may be a customary tradition for the locals, I prefer to cruise on its age-old waters – particularly as a solo female traveller. This is precisely why I’m aboard the AmaWaterways cruise ship, AmaLilia. It offers a peaceful retreat from Egypt’s bustling streets and chaotic roads – a unique travelling experience where the car honk is a love language and staying in your lane is optional.
After all, the Nile is the longest river in the world, spanning nine countries – a true source of life that dates to the ancient world of the Pharaohs. It makes sense to explore it, particularly between Luxor and Aswan, where sensational views blend seamlessly with its direct route into the ancient world.
Today, the Nile continues to be a revered life force for more than 100 million Egyptians, their way of life immersed deeply in its storied waters. Children splash about while cows bask in its refreshing embrace, with towering palm groves acting as the gateway to lush farmland, humble villages and a way of life untouched by modernity.
Locals cast their nets for fish from their wooden boats, a sight I encounter from the ship – but that’s not the only boat on the water with us. As I’m sitting in my suite – a spacious and modern retreat complete with balcony – I hear “hello, hello, hello”. I look down and two young Egyptians have tied their boat to ours, gliding with us on the Nile’s glistening waters. These cheeky boys have made this a habit to sell local items like pashminas – one of which was thrown up to me on my balcony.
Egyptians can be persistent when selling their wares in tourist areas. This is why travelling on tour in Egypt helps – local guides know how to navigate the situation. Speaking Arabic works, but it’s their presence that does the talking. The vendors soften their approach when they notice a local because they know the guide will protect the group from unwanted sales tactics.
In saying that, Egyptians are some of the friendliest people, many of whom are so grateful for business, so carrying Egyptian pounds does a world of good – as does fresh meat for the cats and dogs at ancient sites. (I can’t help but bring fresh sausages and chicken from the breakfast and lunch buffet with me each day).
There are 27 of us on the AmaWaterways tour, each coming from locations all around the world. Eleven nights together encourage new friendships, one of my favourite things about travelling as a group. You can’t help but get to know your fellow passengers, and that’s a luxury when travelling solo. I find myself dining with a husband and wife and their two daughters several times, bonding over the shared love of refraining from placing suitcases on the bed. Sure, sometimes it’s nice to have your own space, but this cruise has a way of allowing for that, too.
After three days staying at the St Regis Hotel on land exploring all the ancient sites in Cairo, from Saqqara to the Pyramids of Giza to the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum, Coptic Cairo (where Mother Mary and baby Jesus found refuge and baby Moses was found in a papyrus basket by the pharoah’s daughter) and Mohammad Ali Mosque, we’re off to board the ship, which awaits in Luxor, a one-hour flight from Cairo.
The morning of our first day, the sunrise over the Nile’s east bank reveals striking crimson hues with hot air balloons dotted across the sky – a sight that sets the tone for the magic that awaits. It’s no accident that the ancient Egyptians built the Karnak and Luxor temples here; it symbolises the “land of the living”.
On the west bank, however, where the sun sets, you’ll find the realm of the dead – a place of transition to the afterlife for the pharaohs. This is where the Valley of the Kings – home to Tutankhamun’s mummified corpse and the Temple of Hatshepsut, Egypt’s most powerful female pharaoh – can be found.
It’s no secret that ancient Egypt holds a tapestry of hidden stories, many of which come to life through the insight of an Egyptologist – an expert in the study of history, language, religion, literature and art, including the translation of hieroglyphics. These are found inside tombs and temples – a mystical door unveiling ancient worship, rituals, beliefs and offerings held sacred by the ancient Egyptians.
This is an inclusion on the tour that proved to be invaluable. I liken it to school, when everyone gets on the bus that takes you to all the best places while listening to the teacher, except this time, you want to be there.
As I walk through Karnak Temple in Luxor, the group encounters a black scarab statue celebrated for its luck. The modern tradition is to walk around the statue seven times while making a wish – particularly for marriage, love, and fertility. This is something I wouldn’t have known if my guide hadn’t pointed it out.
It’s tales like this that reveal Egypt as a fascinating destination with many ancient and cultural layers. It’s a wondrous place where organised chaos meets serenity and peace – a living paradox – breathtaking and confronting all in one.
After a day of exploring the ancient sights, the heat begins to take a toll, which makes returning to AmaLila a welcome relief, particularly with its onboard refreshments and cold towels on arrival. Less than one year old, the vessel is modern and fresh with an upper deck worth mentioning: crisp, white sun loungers submerged in the pool with sand-fringed umbrellas bring the resort feel as you watch the world go by. And that it does, when you’re in a cooking class learning how to make Egyptian doughnuts or “zalabya”, one of the many activities on board.
If I’m not eating, I’m drinking, but not the alcoholic kind (although there are some fabulous cocktails, spirits and wine on board). My favourite is the fresh watermelon juice, off menu, made courtesy of my bartender, Ahmed.
As night falls, the entertainment on board begins, each evening something a little different – like the belly dancer who sways to the rhythm of the riqq, a classical Egyptian tambourine. Then it’s time for dinner, with a la carte three-course selections changing daily – a nice touch that curbs culinary boredom. There’s also the “Chef’s Table”, an optional experience on board for guests who want something a little special.
On the other hand, breakfast and lunch offer a buffet-style feast with an abundant, ever-changing selection of fresh ingredients daily from the land, earth and sea.
Another true standout alongside the local on-board dining experiences is the team and their ability to make you feel safe. From the cruise manager and Egyptologist to the friendly bus driver and security guard, each of them allows you to immerse yourself in the country’s ancient wonders, minus the stress of navigating language barriers, different customs and cultures. Whether it’s organising your entry visa or simply keeping an eye out for you in crowded places, they have a knack for taking care of your every need, and as a result, it offers reassurance for solo female travellers exploring this exciting destination.
The journalist was a guest on the Secrets of the Nile travel tour courtesy of AmaWaterways.