From magnesium soaks and mushroom lattes to vegan feasts and lighthouse walks, there’s renewal to be found in the sun-drenched Byron Bay, writes Cath Johnsen.
I’m sitting at a rustic table outside The Byron Bay General Store, a local’s meeting spot since the 1940s, now buzzing as a wholefoodscafe. The apricity of the winter sun is warming me from the inside out, as is the mushroom latte I’m sipping – a blend of Reishi, Chaga and Lion’s Mane adaptogenic mushrooms, brewed with oat milk, maple syrup and cinnamon.
Mushroom latte at The General Store. Photo / Cath Johnsen
At the table next to me sits Pat Rafter with a group of friends. The former world No 1 tennis player, who now calls this region home, looks as fit and healthy as ever. Maybe he’s drinking the mushroom lattes too. I scoop into my organic acai bowl loaded with fruit, nuts and seeds, and wonder if a few days in Pat’s neighbourhood could inject some health and vitality into me too.
I’m visiting Byron Bay for a wellness weekend, which is opportune, given I have spent the last two weeks recovering from a virus. Even now, my voice is husky, but clear enough to chat with Cath, the manager of The Bower, a roadside motel turned luxe accommodation – a haven for guests like me looking to escape the rat race. Situated right next door to The General Store, Cath shows me around The Bower’s tropical landscaped gardens and points out the heated magnesium pool fringed by swaying palms. I can’t wait to plunge in, and I’ve also taken note of the poolside bar, where you can order a cocktail or wine to be delivered to your sun lounger.
After turning the key into my studio apartment and peering in, I am already planning an evening of sinking into the deep bubbly bath, before snuggling up in the sumptuous, king-sized four poster bed.
The Bower Hotel. Photo / Supplied
Next on my wellness itinerary is a facial at The Bower’s Day Spa, led by Mukti-trained, Byron local, Lana. Mukti is an organic beauty brand, made in Australia, with a flagship store located in nearby Mullumbimby. Its founder, eponymously known as Mukti, began selling her wares 25 years ago at a local market. Now, her skincare products are used around the country, including in this candle-lit room, where I am lying blessedly horizontal as serums and scrubs are massaged liberally into my skin then wiped away with hot towels. It’s a curious ritual, but not an unwelcome one, especially the spritzes of Mukti’s rose mist, made from rose water and aloe leaf juice.
As she works, Layla tells me how winter is her favourite season in Byron Bay because it reminds her of the slower paced, not-so-tourist-trampled beachside town of her childhood. For wellness experiences, she rates the infrared saunas at Nimbus Co, which promise all the benefits of the sun, but without the UV damage. “I often meet up there with friends, instead of meeting at a bar for a drink,” she explains. “It’s a healthy lifestyle swap.”
The Bower Hotel. Photo / Harrison Adams
The following day I try something similar – a visit to Navia, a Nordic-themed bathhouse in Byron Bay with a sauna, steam room, ice plunge bath, cold pool and a heated magnesium spa. In my swimsuit with a towel slung over my shoulder, I descend into the softly lit, plant-filled, scented basement, which is full of beautiful people getting their wellness on. I’ve read the research on the health benefits of all the hot and cold options, but I cowardly spend most of my time sipping herbal tea in the blissfully warm pool and leave feeling not quite as invigorated as I could have.
Back outside, the day is gloriously sunny, so I spend the rest of it getting my medicinal dose of exercise and Vitamin D on a walk to the iconic Cape Byron Lighthouse. From The Bower, the walk is approximately 6km return, along a picturesque beachside track that demands photo stops.
Cape Byron Lighthouse. Photo / Cath Johnsen
I reach the whitewashed lighthouse, which has stood tall and gleaming on Australia’s most easterly point since 1901, set against the backdrop of endless Pacific blue. I scan the seas for whales, which pass by every winter on their annual migration from Antarctica to the warmer waters of Queensland. Unfortunately, I don’t spot any, but whale watching tours run most days and can take you closer to the action. I can personally attest to how healing and humbling it is to spend a day out on the water, in the presence of these gentle, giant mammals.
A wellness weekend in Byron Bay wouldn’t be complete without sampling the healthy food scene, and I opt for vegetarian and vegan choices, which, in this bohemian town, is deliciously easy.
Folk Cafe in Byron Bay. Photo / Cath Johnsen
Dinner that evening is at No Bones, a vegan restaurant that doesn’t compromise on flavour or flair – their take on crispy “calamari”, made with mushroom, is excellent. And the following morning, I enjoy poached Turkish eggs with lemon and herb yoghurt and locally made pita bread at the vegetarian Folk Cafe. Seated in their lush garden setting, I wash the food down with a virtuous green smoothie. It’s the kind of meal that leaves me feeling nourished and joyful, just like Byron Bay itself.