Anna King Shahab finds the best street eats in Taiwan
Forget reservations or waiting for table service; there are so many delicious (and some challenging) casual ways to dine in Taiwan. The island country's cuisine is diverse, drawing on its indigenous cultures, the cuisines of Hokkien and Hakka immigrants from China, and both Japan and the US which have had a big influence at certain times. From brightly lit night markets to bubble tea shops and dine-and-dash city joints, here's an introduction to some of Taiwan's standout street eats,:
Hot Milk
Technically not street food, at least when I tried it, as we climbed to the second level of an inconspicuous building to sample the delights of one of Taipei's favourite breakfast spots, Fu Hang Soy Milk. The fresh, hot soy milk (dou jiang) that is the signature dish here is ubiquitous at breakfast time across the country. At the neon-lit counter, staff busily make up takeaway and dine-in orders from steaming vats – the soy milk is made fresh and served piping hot and sweet.
Bing Fling
Also popular at breakfast, and very good for dunking into your hot soy milk, are a range of breadish things. Deep-fried dough sticks (read: doughnuts for breakfast – thanks!), called youtiao, are perfect for dipping and are also used as components in other dishes. There are various takes on bing (baked or pan-fried bread). Crepe-like dan bing wrap fillings of scrambled egg, spring onion, youtiao, and sometimes beef. Thicker doughs are cooked in a cylindrical oven not unlike a tandoor (in peak summer 38 degrees, I felt for the cooks), like the plump, sesame-encrusted hu jiao bing, with a filling of black pepper and pork mince.
Silky Sweet
I had to try the oxymoronic sounding fried milk, and found a great spot on the edge of Raohe Night Market hawking that one dish. A batter made with sweetened condensed milk is chilled and wrapped on skewers; when you order, the skewers are deep-fried, and the batter transforms from pasty white squares to crisp golden circles - magic indeed. I'm not a sweet-tooth and had already filled my tummy to the point of bursting, but these are sublime skewers: the crisp shell giving way to a smooth, sweet custardy interior.