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Home / Stratford Press / Lifestyle

Yvonne Lorkin: Pair a winter roast with a red

By Yvonne Lorkin
NZME. regionals·
24 Jul, 2015 05:00 PM4 mins to read

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Simon Gault's rack of lamb with a spring roll of fig and mango with creamed spinach.

Simon Gault's rack of lamb with a spring roll of fig and mango with creamed spinach.

Roast Day cometh!

Sunday August 2 is fast becoming one of my favourite Sundays of the year because I have full permission to abandon all pretentious food anxieties and get amongst a gloriously old school roast.

Selaks New Zealand Roast Day was instigated by the 80-year-old wine brand about six years ago to encourage Kiwis to gather together.

My husband recently found an enormous leg of lamb and it's been lurking in the fridge just waiting to be hoisted into the oven with a heap of root veges, garlic cloves and herbs.

In terms of a wine match I'm a huge fan of pinot noir with lamb but depending on your seasoning, any red wine will do.

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But if you're after a splash of inspiration for your roast recipe, visit selaksnzroastday.co.nz to download their ecookbook complete with recipes from celebrity chefs like Simon Gault, Nici Wickes, Jonny Schwass, Julie Biuso and Paul Jobin.

Age-worthy in Central Otago ...

In 1983 Alan Brady planted his first vineyard in Central Otago's Gibbston Valley. It was called the Home Block. The first commercial wine from that vineyard was released in 1987 and went on to raise eyebrows around the world.

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Alan opened Gibbston Valley Wines in 1990 and over the years secured other pinot-perfect vineyard sites (China Terrace and School House) while that original, close-planted Home Block plot quietly got on with the job of getting older and wiser.

Today the vines are almost 32 years old; they're not irrigated and are certified organic.

These elder statesmen produce fruit used for Le Maitre, a wine made by Christopher Keys and his team in tribute to Brady.

Glenlee, like the Home Block, is in Gibbston and close-planted at 6000 vines/ha.

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Chris reckons your back always takes a hammering when working in this vineyard. "Because the vines are planted in such high density you have to have the fruiting wire trained low to the ground.

"If it were higher, the canopy would be too shady - so you have to bend right over to do any work."

And to make things that much more difficult, there's the extra expense of needing specialist tractors and trailers just to get down the rows. So it's a labour of love, with heavy emphasis on the 'labour'.

"I did a day of picking on similar type vines in France," adds Chris.

"Either you kill your back by bending over so far, or you spend the day on your knees. Not something you want to do when it's cold, wet and muddy because no one wants soggy jeans. God it sucked".

What doesn't suck, though, are these sips.

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SIPS OF THE WEEK

Gibbston Valley Le Maitre Pinot Noir 2014, $85

This is such a young wine it almost seems like a crime to open it but I'm a curious puppy and couldn't help myself. Glossy magenta in the glass and oozing juicy cherry and plum characters, it's the dusting of dried herb, tea leaf and truffle that makes me confident that it'll age deliciously. Elegant stuff. gibbstonvalley.com

Gibbston Valley Glenlee Pinot Noir 2014, $65

Sexy sweet fruit smashes its way out of the glass here. Pretty plum, berry and black cherry flavours merge with soft spices in a rich, generously juicy punch to the palate. Very upfront and confident in its youth, it'll reward for another year or four. gibbstonvalley.com

Selaks Reserve Marlborough/Central Otago Pinot Noir 2014, $22

Ruby-black in colour and rocking robust aromas of five-spice, black tea, clove and dark plum, this dual-region combo works really well. The palate is sweetly fruited, bright and juicy and extremely easy to drink. Widely available.

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Sunshine Brewery Powercut Mild Dark Ale 330ml $26 per doz

"There's only one power feed into Gisborne and it died on the day of the brew," say the notes with this beer.

"The brew got dumped after our brewer said: 'There's no alcohol in that' but the name Powercut stuck and was given to this low alcohol, high flavour beer."

The colour is glossy dark amber with a caramel-edged head and I really like the peanut skin and bitter toffee aromas. For a 2.4 per cent abv beer, it's got exceptionally good richness, fullness and length - great stuff all round. To buy, email info@sunshinebrewery. co.nz

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