By GREG TOURELLE in Sydney
The oval ball is everywhere in Sydney.
The grand finals of the NRL and Australian Rules have come and gone, and now rugby union, for so long the minnow in the Australian footie scene, holds centre stage.
At the Bayswiss Deli, in Sydney's city centre, they not only sell great potato and leek pies and Thai chicken rissoles, but usually a few other, non-edible, goodies as well.
Like scrunchy velvet cushions and scented candles, if you like that sort of thing.
But the cushions and candles have gone. They've been replaced by rugby jerseys, flags, banners and all sorts of rugby paraphernalia.
National anthems echo from speakers in the store.
Wallaby gear abounds, but behind the food counter is a lovely Maori woman with a large silver fern on her black shirt.
"People say to me 'what are you doing wearing that? You should be in green and gold'," says Laurel Wano, originally from Waikaremoana.
"But no way. I am an All Black supporter.
"They're going to win ... aren't they? I hope so. I'll be backing them all the way."
The banter Laurel engages in will be commonplace throughout venues in Australia. New Zealand visitors should be prepared for sheep jokes, jibes about the All Blacks' poor record in recent World Cups, and whether Armani designed their jerseys.
There will be plenty of opportunity for counter-attack.
The Wallabies have been riven this year by a pay dispute that has seen captain George Gregan and Australian rugby chief John O'Neill described as enemies.
The home team's poor lead-up included a hiding at the hands of the All Blacks, and Gregan and coach Eddie Jones have been pilloried to levels previously only experienced by All Black leaders at home when results are not going well.
The Aussies are defending champions and can't be written off. But most pundits are predicting a final between the All Blacks and the behemoths from England.
How many New Zealand fans will be attending is not known.
While the country was given a special allocation believed to be between 70,000 and 80,000 tickets after losing out on sub-hosting rights for the tournament, those tickets were available only through Rugby World Cup Ltd-appointed travel agents and included A$1000 ($1154) royalty fees and rigid accommodation schedules.
Most New Zealanders baulked and took their chances on Australian internet offers of tickets and made their travel plans individually.
But the Australian Rugby Union believes the tournament will attract 40,000 overseas visitors, down on their original estimate of 55,000, but still a hefty influx considering global fears of terrorism and the Sars virus.
About 100,000 Australians will be travelling interstate for matches.
So far, 1.8 million tickets have been sold and the ARU is hoping to top the two million mark.
Over the 44 days of the tournament, culminating in the November 22 final, 48 games will be played in six capital cities and other major localities.
ARU chief O'Neill has been hoping to capture the friendly atmosphere of the 2000 Olympics, widely-acclaimed as the "best ever," for the World Cup.
"The last two weeks here in Sydney have been very Olympic-like," he said. "When huge screens go up in areas such as The Rocks and Darling Harbour, the party atmosphere will go up another cog.
"It will be a good time to own a pub or restaurant, and rugby people do know how to party. They are fairly skilled at it, so I think beware, lock up your daughters."
The organisers will be hoping the almighty row between Australia and New Zealand over the hosting rights for the event will be forgotten amid the partying - not to mention the row over ticket prices and the attempts by hotels to rip off rugby tourists with exorbitant accommodation charges.
And much of it will seem minor once the games are under way.
But there will be new dilemmas to capture the media headlines - players will be sent off the paddock, some will misbehave off it and there might be a positive drug test or two.
There will be concerns about referees being too pedantic and whistle-happy, but some will criticise them if they are too laid back.
You can't win on that one.
But there promises to be some spectacular rugby.
There's no Jonah Lomu in this tournament, but Joe Rokocoko shapes as being a worthy replacement in the superstar stakes.
Who knows? Maybe it will be Rupeni Caucaunibuca who sets the tournament alight with the Fijians.
Last night in Sydney, the oval ball that is everywhere was lit up on Sydney Harbour Bridge.
The All Blacks were arriving in Melbourne. The kegs were rolling off the trucks in town.
Let the games begin.
- NZPA
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