Now it's one of the most modern cities in Europe, about to host its first major football tournament. There are hints at the airport, with an entire wing of the arrivals hall given over to murals about each team (though the huge New Zealand photo is a bit dated, centred on Rory Fallon celebrating his goal against Bahrain in 2009 in Wellington).
There is a sense of quiet expectation in the air here, after so many disappointments for Russian football. The team has qualified for three World Cups and five European Championships since 1996, but only reached the knockout stages once.
This time has to be different, as President Vladimir Putin reminded the team, and the entire nation, on Friday. During his twice-yearly state of the nation address, where he takes selected questions from more than 2 million submitted across the country, he made some pointed remarks about the football side, saying it had `let the nation down' in the past and needed to perform this time.
Putin, a St Petersburg native who first came to office in 2000 and is likely to rule until at least 2020, also confirmed he will take his seat in the stadium on Saturday, adding another layer of pressure for the home side.
- By Michael Burgess in St Petersburg
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