When heading from the bright lights and high-tech wizardry of Tokyo to sections of the Nakasendo Highway in central Japan , you may be forgiven for feeling like you've somehow discovered time travel.
The historic highway that linked the old capital of Kyoto to the newly established capital of Edo – now modern-day Tokyo – was once travelled by feudal lords, samurai and even royalty during the Edo P eriod of 1603-1867 , and in some areas little has changed since. The full length of the Nakasendo spans some 530 kilometres, and took its historical travellers at least 15 days to traverse end to end, through Japan's mountainous landscape . These days much of it you can now follow by train or bus. But in the picturesque prefectures of Gifu and Nagano especially, much care has been taken to preserve the original path and the settlements along it, so you can hike the trail at your own pace to absorb its spectacular cultural, historical and natural wonders, much like those in the 17th and 18th century would have experienced.
One of the most popular sections of the ancient trail takes you through the Kiso Valley with two of the most well-preserved towns, Magome and Tsumago, at either end and a distance of 7.5 kilometres between. On this stretch you'll meander through countryside, peaceful forest and bamboo groves, and spot shrines, waterfalls and terraced rice paddies. If you need a pitstop, there's a teahouse about halfway, where you can sip a brew and chew on candies to restore your energy – the proprietor may even entertain you with a song. Don't linger too long- as you'll want to make sure you have time to explore the post towns at either end.
Situated on a hillside along a winding cobbled path, with fantastic views of Mt Ena, Magome is the 43rd of the 69 old post towns that traditionally serviced travellers along the Nakasendo. It is beautifully preserved with the typical Edo P eriod structures of tiered roofs and signature pillars lining its quaint streets. Stop by the historical wooden waterwheel that still functions and sample the snacks from the numerous eateries, including oyaki dumplings, filled with veggies, fruit or bean paste and roasted on an iron pan, or gohei-mochi, a skewered grilled rice snack served with a miso and soy sauce. Local sake, too, should not be missed. In Tsumago, don't miss the Nagiso Town Museum for a more comprehensive context of all that you've seen. And from the ruins of Tsumago Castle, which played an important role in protecting the Kiso Valley, you'll have superlative views of Tsumago itself nestled within the surrounding pine trees.
There are longer and more challenging sections of this walking holiday for those who are up to it – such as the 17-kilometre Tsumago to Nojiri trek, which will take you through undulating hills, hinoki forests and past picturesque mountain hamlets. Hikers here often sport bells on their packs to make sure the local bears keep their distance.
The good news is that many tour companies will ferry your pack between post towns so you can travel light and truly soak up your surroundings as you walk. Many offer 3- to 10 -day options, with trains and buses an option for sections when a town's appeal makes you linger longer than expected. If you're travelling independently, there's a baggage forwarding service available at the tourist information centres between Tsumago and Magome.
Opt to stay in a family-run ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) in one of the post towns along the trail and you'll often be treated to a multi-course dinner, while sporting a yukata gown, and sometimes a private onsen – a mineral bath, perfect for a soak at the end of the walking day – before a good night's sleep on a traditional futon. Just like a samurai might've hundreds of years before…