Waitangi: Teen proud of special day as waka depart from shore

Megan Vercoe.

It's the middle of summer but you wouldn't know it as dozens of kaihoe (paddlers) brave the drizzle and blustery winds at Waitangi on what is New Zealand's most historic day.

Many onlookers, Maori and Pakeha, young and old, are crowded on to the beach at Te Tii among the paddlers as the waka crews' leader, Wiremu Wiremu, tells them what's going to happen and where they should stand.

Among them is Megan Vercoe of Ruakaka, a year 12 student from Bream Bay College who looks relaxed as the kaihoe begin their karakia (prayer) before setting out into the fast incoming tide.

"I've been to Waitangi in the past, to the Treaty grounds and around the place, but I've never been here on Waitangi Day," she says.

"It's pretty wicked, it's pretty cool."

The 16-year-old, who missed the 5am dawn ceremony at the Treaty grounds just a few hours before, says part of the reason she has come to Waitangi is to watch her boyfriend, Jardi, who is one of the kaihoe on the waka Te Whiu.

Jardi had been training for months for the day's waka regatta that is confined to the inlet because of the windy conditions. Megan admits to knowing little about Waitangi or the Treaty, despite learning about it at primary school and intermediate.

She is also unaware of the area's long history of Maori protest.

"You don't really take it in, you know, but you realise it is significant - especially when you come here."

"But just looking around today though, you wouldn't think anyone was actually protesting about anything because everyone seems really happy. There's a lot of tourists here, too, and they can see something good is happening. We have something special going on as New Zealanders."

As the waka depart from the shore the onlookers are encouraged by their kaihautu (leader) to cheer loudly and acknowledge the long hours of practice they've put in.

The kaihoe chant in time with their synchronised movements. There are throngs of flag-bearing people on the bridge back to Paihia that are also clapping, whistling and applauding as they pass. Does this day make you feel proud to be a New Zealander? "Yeah man, hard," says Megan.

"Next time I would go to the actual celebration and maybe the dawn ceremony and not just have it as a day off. I think New Zealanders should definitely come here, it's a special day."