Pastures Past: Moleskins, good enough for the king in 1903

A mole in soil. Photo / Pixabay / Pexels

Kem Ormond takes a look at the world of farming back in the day.

Moleskins were the fashion garment worn by farmers, stock agents, drovers, bushmen, shearers and the gentry.

As seen in the articles below, around the turn of the 20th century, the skin of moles was well sought after not just for trousers and waistcoats, but for women who wanted muffs, stoles and jackets made out of them.

Today moleskin is a heavy cotton fabric, woven and then shorn to create a short, soft pile on one side.

The feel and appearance of its nap is suede-like and the fabric is tough but smooth to the skin.

The duty on Moleskins

Daily Telegraph Napier, July 14, 1884

[To the editor of the Daily Telegraph.]

Sir,—Two shillings on every pair of moleskins donned promises to become famous in Hawke’s Bay, but for the State to receive that much duty on a pair of moleskins the cost to the consumers would be eighteen to twenty shillings a pair, which we know to be absurd.

Moleskins, to give the revenue two shillings, would have to be invoiced at 12s 1d a pair.

So, whether they are imported and pay duty, or come in the piece and are manufactured in the colony, it is quite evident that the State never did charge two shillings per pair for duty.

—I am, &c., MODERATION.

Advertisement for McBride’s

Thames Star, February 11, 1890

It is very seldom, in large firms in the Old Country or elsewhere, that between 300 and 400 pieces of cloth can be seen in one establishment in the tailoring line.

At McBride’s in Albert Street, may be viewed a stock as large.

It includes every description of cloth manufactured from doeskins to moleskins, from rough tweeds to the finest silk-like worsteds and silk mixtures.

Mr F. W. Johnson, the local manager, will wait on customers at any distance with large samples of this fine stock; or if any particular cloth is required, with the piece itself.

Now is the time to order for Xmas, as nearer the holiday we are too rushed, and hence may arise disappointments as to time and finishing.

Order at once.—[ADVT.]

Demand for Moleskins.

A new fashion set by the King.

New Zealand Herald, June 13, 1903

The fashion of wearing moleskin garments, recently revived by the King, who has been wearing a waistcoat of that glossy fur, has caused a boom in moleskins.

Mole-catchers all over the country, especially in Lincolnshire, where the little creatures abound, are straining all their energies to collect skins and make a little fortune.

Thousands of moleskins reach the great furriers’ establishments every day from all parts of Britain and the Continent.

At the Furriers’ Alliance, in Old Bond Street, 4000 skins have just arrived in one consignment, and the firm state that they cannot get too many, as the demand for moleskin garments is so great.

“Formerly,” said a member of the firm, “we paid about 1d each for the skins; now the price sometimes reaches as high 1s for a good skin. Ladies are having moleskin muffs, stoles and jackets and even motoring coats.

“They do not mind the expense so long as they are in the fashion, although moleskins are notoriously bad wearing as they are so fragile. A coat or jacket of moleskin soon wears out through the pulling required to get it on. One long coat of mole’s fur would contain hundreds of skins”.

At well-known motorists’ outfitting establishment in Piccadilly, the same tale was told.

Motoring garments even to gauntlet gloves of moleskin have been made.

One pair of gloves contains about 40 skins and as the price of the skins in the rough average about 8d each the cost of this little fashion foible may be reckoned at a pretty high figure.

- Source: Papers Past