COMMENT
In the interests of marital harmony, I'd just like to say from the start that I'm a great admirer of Tongans.
I know this may not have come across in previous columns on the kingdom, but I think it's important to state it, given that every time I mention that I'm married to a Tongan, someone reacts with barely disguised astonishment.
Evidently, many people think we Samoans and Tongans don't get along. This is nonsense. We get along just fine. As fine as, say, Australians and New Zealanders. There's a bit of rivalry, sure, but it's more a sibling thing.
And, after all, we go back a long way. Before we were discovered by Europeans, the Tongans were the force to be reckoned with in the western Pacific. In fact, the Tongan empire spread its tentacles through Fiji, Rotuma, Uvea and Futuna, to the distant Polynesian Tikopia in the Solomon Islands.
And, as some of them are inclined to point out, they occupied Samoa, too, for some 300 years, until Samoans dispatched them back to Tonga. At which famed point the departing Tongan king, gracious in defeat, is said to have declared: "Malie tau, malie toa." Outstanding battle, outstanding warrior.
Not that all Tongan achievements are buried in antiquity. The Tongans, as they never tire of reminding us, were the only Polynesians who were never subjugated by the colonising Europeans.
And not only can they lay claim to being a proud warrior nation, they're also a brainy nation. Tonga was among the first countries in the world to introduce compulsory universal primary education - beating New Zealand by more than a decade.
In more recent times, it boasted the highest number of PhDs per capita in the world. Yes, that's right. Tonga, current population 110,000.
I bumped into one of those PhDs in Apia a few days ago, Tongan MP and businessman Dr Fred Sevele. He was there doing what most proud Tongans would find just a little galling to admit. Finding out why Samoa had become the economic success story of small South Pacific nations; why it had left Tonga in its dusty wake.
I didn't think it was all that mysterious, actually. As Professor Ron Crocombe writes in his book The South Pacific: "Once the leading nation of the region, with higher standards of income and independence, and looked up to as a model, Tonga has stagnated and no longer wields much influence in Pacific affairs."
Tonga's education is, nevertheless, among the best of the independent nations in the region, and Tonga could regain some of its former position if the potential of the people was freed by reforms of government.
Some people seem to think that what happened in Tonga last week is a little precursor of that change.
There had been a cabinet "reshuffle" in which three prominent ministers had been shuffled right out of cabinet. Out went the unpopular Police Minister Clive Edwards, the Attorney-General and Minister of Justice, Aisea Taumoepeau, and the Minister of Labour, Commerce and Industries, Masasso Paunga.
This was a cause for celebration by many pro-democracy activists. After all, Edwards and Taumoepeau, who wasted little time in returning to New Zealand, followed closely by his Solicitor-General wife, Alisi, were the architects of the changes to the constitution and new media laws which have seen the Auckland-based Taimi'O Tonga banned from the kingdom. This week, 173 claimants are challenging the changes in Tonga's Supreme Court.
Alani Taione, who burned the Tongan flag in protest not long ago, told Radio Australia that he thought this was a sign of the King being responsive to his people. Dr Sevele suggested, too, that this would dampen the mutterings of revolution already audible among ordinary Tongans.
But not everyone is so sanguine. The more cynical pro-democracy leader, Akilisi Pohiva, tracks the sackings to the creation of two competing domestic airlines, which came after the recent demise of Royal Tongan Airlines, owing $33 million.
One, Fly Niu, is owned and operated by former Royal Tongan Airlines staff. The other, Peau Vavau, belongs to the King's eldest son, Crown Prince Tupoutoa.
According to Pohiva, Fly Niu had been taking the lion's share of the business, which is probably bad manners when your competitor is the heir to the throne.
Those familiar with the royal children's penchant for staking their claim on all the country's national services - the power supply, telecommunications, duty free, internet, and satellite orbital rights - weren't surprised when moves were made to rescind Fly Niu's licence and issue the sole licence to the Crown Prince's airline.
What was surprising, however, was that the Cabinet was advised against the move by the three ministers who have since become surplus to requirements. Remember, the Cabinet's 12 members, including the Prime Minister, the King's youngest son, are all appointed, and ultimately dis-appointed, by his majesty.
The three now join a long line of once-powerful cabinet ministers who have taken the fall for their king and country. Like the two who were forced out after the King's official court jester, Jessie Bogdonoff, managed a disappearing trick with US$26.5 million of Tonga's trust funds.
Or another former Minister of Finance, Mahe Tupouniua, now living in Auckland, who made the mistake of trying to restrict the King's travelling allowance and ended up travelling himself, right out of the job.
Despite the celebratory mood over the latest developments, however, cynics say that nothing has changed. The King and his children still have absolute power, and Tonga is still falling behind the rest of the Pacific.
But what should be done to arrest the slide? Those making submissions to the parliamentary select committee hearings into ways to "enhance" New Zealand-Tonga relations, are deeply divided about how this country could promote democratic change.
Some propose that New Zealand should cut its aid altogether, others that it be increased from the current $5.6 million to a more equitable level, given New Zealand exports earn $60 million a year.
Some are passionately opposed to interference by New Zealand, while others accuse New Zealand of sitting on its hands.
Kalafi Moala, the publisher of Taimi'O Tonga, is one of those who warns of turbulent times ahead if there is no change. "Let's not be so naive as to think that the Friendly Islands could not turn very unfriendly and violent if the people of Tonga are pushed beyond the limit."
Still, I doubt that change can be imposed from outside without setting everyone's teeth on edge. And if it's true that people get the governments they deserve, more people in Tonga need to lift their expectations.
What would get Tongans fired up? Just tell them the Samoans are leaving them for dead.
<i>Tapu Misa:</i> Reforms needed to restore Tonga's leading Pacific status
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