A Taste of ... Montreal with Kyle Street from Culprit

I'd always been fascinated by the food I saw in old-school American movies. You know the ones: the cook is out back working a greased hotplate with a spatula. There are fried eggs, hash, maybe bacon on the go. You'd also see the savoury waffle which was something that totally mystified me.

Eventually I visited the amazing Schwartz's Deli in Montreal where they had hotplate food galore. While they didn't serve waffles, I found one on that same trip, at a roadside waffle house. But I didn't really get it. I think I expected something similar to eggy bread or French toast, but those mass-produced waffles just didn't live up to the hype.

We've dabbled with them here at Culprit over the years, refining and elevating this very humble dish, adding a level of crispness with a perfected recipe that includes wholemeal flour for more flavour and texture.

Now, with the addition of our all-day and late-night wine bar & lounge, Little Culprit, we finally have a place for my ode to the waffle.

Kyle Street is the chef and co-owner of Culprit and Little Culprit on Auckland's Wyndham St.

Smoked kahawai waffle with hot sauce mayonnaise

The secret to a good waffle is heat. Get your waffle iron quite hot before starting, and use a little oil to help release the waffle. I prefer cast-iron waffle makers that you use on the stove, but I also own a little electric number I can pull out in emergencies.

Wholemeal waffle batter

Makes 6 large waffles

125g wholemeal flour
100g self-raising flour
½ tsp baking powder
A pinch of salt
A pinch of sugar
100g butter (melted and cooled)
150g buttermilk
150g milk
3 eggs

300g smoked kahawai ((50g per waffle)

1. Mix the dry ingredients well in a medium bowl.
2. Make a well In a separate bowl, mix the milk, egg and buttermilk till combined.
3. Add to the well and bring together till just combined but smooth.
4. Fold through the warm - not hot - butter. Chill till ready to use.
5. Heat a waffle iron to max, lightly greased with cooking spray is great.
6. Add a hefty spoonful of the mix to the waffle iron, place the picked smoked fish on top, close the iron and cook as required by instructions.

Huffman's hot sauce mayo

100g mayonnaise
2 tsp Huffman's not-so-hot sauce (or whatever's in your fridge)
2 tsp lemon juice
A pinch of sea salt

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and whip with a spatula till it comes together and is smooth.

Serve with capers, dill, sliced lemon and grated boiled egg over the top.