The chef is a Netflix star, the restaurant is booked out until January and eating there has been named among the Top 100 things to do in the world. Kim Knight gets a rare seat at Wellington's Hiakai, the hottest food ticket in town.

Hot. Hot like soup, like the inside of a stomach, like when your blood rises and your face flushes. The next thing that happens will either be very good or very bad. It might be cabbage.

Spoiler: It is cabbage. Fire-roasted with muttonbird xo and something about chicken skins and a sweet molasses that I think

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