Is lip balm making my chapped lips worse?

Lip balm can soothe chapped lips, but the wrong ingredients might make irritation worse. Photo / 123RF

It can be a helpful barrier between your lips and wind, but not all products are created equal.

It’s always the same: The wind whips. Your lips crack. So you reach for lip balm and wonder – is it really helping?

Lip skin is thin, so it needs a little extra protection, said Dr Heather Rogers, a dermatologist in Seattle. And lip balm is one of the best and most convenient products to add that layer of armour.

But some lip balms can actually exacerbate irritation and dryness, prompting the need for more, Rogers said. That’s why it’s important to know what to look for and what to avoid when applying certain products to your lips.

Why lips get dry

In addition to being thin, the skin on your lips lacks certain moisture-locking characteristics that other areas of skin have, such as hair follicles, oil glands and a thick layer of dead skin cells, Rogers said. That’s what makes lips “so soft and sensitive”, she added.

When our lips are exposed to environmental stressors like ultraviolet light, air pollutants, cold or hot temperatures and certain foods and drinks, they can become dry and irritated, said Dr Sam Awan, a dermatologist in McKinney, Texas. Licking your lips, which you’re likely to do when they’re dry, can worsen the problem because the digestive enzymes in saliva can cause irritation.

That’s why chapped lips are so common, Awan said.

Overuse of some lip balms can create a cycle of irritation and dryness, leading to dependence. Photo / 123RF

What to look for, and avoid, in a lip balm

The most effective lip balms contain ingredients that attract moisture (known as humectants), add moisture and oil (emollients) and form a protective barrier to seal in moisture (occlusives), Awan said.

Look for products that contain petroleum jelly (commonly listed as petrolatum or white petrolatum on labels), castor oil and glycerin, Rogers said. The American Academy of Dermatology also recommends lip balms that contain ceramides, hemp seed oil, dimethicone, mineral oil and shea butter. Coconut, avocado and extra-virgin olive oils help nourish chapped lips, too, said Dr Danny C. Del Campo, a dermatologist in Chicago.

Use a lip product with an SPF 30 or higher if you plan to be outdoors, even in winter, Del Campo said. This will not only protect against the UV damage that can cause dryness, but also the damage that causes sunburns and, potentially, skin cancer.

Ingredients like shea butter and petrolatum are great for forming a moisture barrier on lips. Photo / 123RF

Awan said people often enjoy the cooling, tingling sensation from ingredients like peppermint oil, camphor and menthol, but they can cause irritation so you should avoid them. The academy also suggests avoiding items with fragrance, flavourings (like mint, citrus and cinnamon), salicylic acid, eucalyptus and lanolin (a fat derived from sheep’s wool that the American Contact Dermatitis Society named the 2023 Allergen of the Year).

Rogers said many popular lip products contain these lip-irritating substances. While they may temporarily soothe your lips, they can ultimately cause so much irritation and dryness that it creates the need to reapply the lip balm frequently.

This is why it might seem like your lip balm is worsening your chapped lips or that you’re addicted to it, Awan said.

Other ways to prevent chapped lips

Peppermint and menthol in some lip balms can create irritation, despite feeling soothing. Photo / 123RF

Along with using lip balm, staying hydrated can prevent chapped lips, Del Campo said. Drink plenty of water (your needs can vary depending on your age, exercise habits and the climate you live in) and use a humidifier when you’re sleeping during the winter, Awan said.

Applying a thick layer of lip balm with moisturising ingredients like petrolatum or shea butter before bedtime will also nourish your lips and prevent chapping, Rogers said. If your lips peel, don’t pick at them or use an abrasive lip scrub, which can remove healthy skin and make chapped lips worse, she said.

Though it can be a tough habit to break, Del Campo said, try not to lick your lips.

What to do when nothing is helping

If your lips remain excessively chapped after trying lip balm with non-irritating ingredients for a few weeks, it can be helpful to see a dermatologist, especially if there is crusting in the corners of your mouth or if your lips are painful or itch, Del Campo said.

These could be signs of an allergic reaction or a yeast or bacterial infection on your lips, he said. In these instances, dermatologists can prescribe medications.

“Anytime you have really inflamed red lips, pain, excessive cracking or just excessive dryness that you cannot make a dent in with your over-the-counter products, it’s a good idea to get a consultation,” Awan said.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

Written by: Erica Sweeney

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