I can’t believe it’s not chicken (super-savoury grated tofu). Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Photo / Armando Rafael, The New York Times
I can’t believe it’s not chicken (super-savoury grated tofu). Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Photo / Armando Rafael, The New York Times
This quick, deceptively meaty tofu dish is crisp, chewy and super savoury.
Poor tofu, still denigrated by meat eaters, despite its deep versatility and pleasing ways.
I love tofu, especially when it’s prepared in ways that smartly highlight its texture, whether it’s luxuriously silken, extra firm or somewhere in thevast middle. Nisha Vora’s recipe for grated, pan-fried tofu (aka “I can’t believe it’s not chicken”) is a great example. The chewy shards of firm tofu crisp up in the skillet and absorb far more of the savoury sauce than your typical cube or slab. Please try it, even if you think tofu isn’t for you.
That recipe, and four others for the week (Steak! Chicken! Cod! Quesadillas!), are below.
1. I can’t believe it’s not chicken (Super-savoury grated tofu)
Grating super-firm tofu is one of the best party tricks in the kitchen. It makes tofu not only quicker to prepare (no pressing required!) but also deceptively meaty. In this recipe from my book Big Vegan Flavour (Avery Books, 2024), the grated tofu is pan-fried until golden, then coated in an extremely good, flavour-rich sauce featuring some of my favourite pan-Asian condiments: fruity yet smoky gochugaru, nutty toasted sesame oil, plus umami-rich Chinese black vinegar and soy sauce. The result is delightfully crispy, chewy and super-savoury tofu that is shockingly meaty. It’s been described as “spicy ground chicken,” “larb-esque,” and “I can’t believe it’s not chicken.” It’s delicious for dinner, but also tastes great at breakfast. Serve with stir-fried or steamed green beans or broccoli for a quick yet delicious meal. To make ahead, you can grate the tofu and prep the aromatics the night before.
1 to 1 1/2 cups/190 to 285g uncooked white or brown rice (or 3 to 4 1/2 cups/425 to 650g cooked white or brown rice)
For the Tofu:
1 (280- to 340-gram) package super-firm tofu (see Tip)
1 1/2 tablespoons neutral-flavoured oil of choice
Four scallions, sliced at an angle (reserve dark green tops for garnish)
One to two Thai chiles (or one small serrano pepper), thinly sliced (optional, for spicy!)
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon roasted black or white sesame seeds
For the sauce:
3 tablespoons/52g tamari or soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese black vinegar (see Tip for a gluten-free substitute)
1 teaspoon organic cane sugar, pure maple syrup or agave nectar
1 tablespoon gochugaru (Korean chile flakes); see Tip
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
For serving:
1 handful coriander leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped
Preparation:
Start by cooking the rice using your preferred method, or get out your leftover cooked rice.
Make the tofu: Wrap the tofu in a thin dish towel and gently squeeze with your palms to remove some water but don’t squish it. Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the tofu. If small pieces break off, slice them very thinly.
In a large nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. After a minute or two, add the scallions, chiles (if using) and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is slightly golden and the scallions are softened, about 2 minutes.
Add the grated tofu to the pan and toss to coat it in the oil. Cook undisturbed for 2 minutes, then stir. Cook, stirring every 2 minutes, until the tofu is golden brown in some spots, a total of 10 to 14 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together the tamari, vinegar, sugar, gochugaru and sesame oil until well combined.
Pour the sauce into the pan – it will bubble rapidly – and stir with a silicone spatula to evenly coat the tofu. Cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and sprinkle with the sesame seeds.
Serve over cooked rice and top with the reserved scallion tops and coriander. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for 4 to 5 days.
Tips:
Super-firm tofu or “high-protein” tofu makes for a very convincing meat substitute, but if you don’t have it, use extra-firm tofu and press for 10 minutes; grate the tofu, then dab with towels to remove water. Don’t have gochugaru? Sub with 1 to 1½ teaspoons of Sichuan chile flakes or sriracha.
Most Chinese black vinegar is fermented with grains. Substitute two parts rice vinegar to one part aged balsamic vinegar.
Chile-garlic seared steak and zucchini. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Photo / Julia Gartland, The New York Times
Umami-rich steak and mild yet hearty zucchini are paired with a simple sauce that works to enhance both. First the steak is sliced thin, then cooked hot and fast. One side is cooked a little longer to brown and caramelise, while the other has just brief contact with the skillet to keep the steak medium-rare. The zucchini is cooked similarly, steaming in its own moisture until tender yet still somewhat firm. A bright, slightly spicy, tangy sauce is drizzled over, with a handful of refreshing mint to finish. Serve as is, or pair with chunks of baguette, roasted potatoes or a lightly dressed green salad.
By Christian Reynoso
Volume: 4 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients:
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper, divided
Salt and black pepper
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
560g hanger or skirt steak
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
4 medium zucchini (about 1 1/4 pounds), cut on a diagonal into 1/2-inch-thick slices
1 big handful mint leaves (about 1/2 cup)
Preparation:
To a small bowl, add the garlic, 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, then stir in the vinegar and set aside.
Cut the steak against the grain into 1-2cm-thick slices and season with salt, black pepper and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper.
Heat a large skillet (preferably not nonstick) over high. Once the pan is hot, add 1 tablespoon oil. Once the oil shimmers and easily glides to coat the bottom of the skillet when tilted, use tongs to add enough steak slices to form a single layer, without overcrowding the pan. If all the steak slices fit comfortably in a single layer, cook as instructed. If they don’t, cook the steak in batches, adding a little more oil as needed. Sear the steak slices, undisturbed, until they are deeply browned on the bottom but still rare on top, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook to medium-rare doneness, 20 to 30 seconds more. Transfer to a serving platter. Adjust heat down to medium.
Add 1 tablespoon oil to the same pan and arrange the zucchini evenly across the surface. Cook until some of the pieces start to become golden on the bottom in spots, then sauté, gently tossing the zucchini and shaking the pan, until just softened throughout, six to eight minutes. Turn off heat, season with salt, toss again and then transfer to the platter with the steak.
Stir the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil into the bowl with the garlic vinegar and spoon it over the seared steak and zucchini. Garnish with mint and serve immediately.
3. Dijon chicken with tomatoes and scallions
Dijon chicken with tomatoes and scallions. Food styled by Susie Theodorou. Photo / Christopher Simpson, The New York Times
A one-pot dish that guards all the delicious flavours it creates as it cooks – the crispy browned bits of seared chicken, simmering soft scallions and burst tomatoes – and transforms them into a sauce with the addition of white wine and mustard. The tomatoes pop and deflate as they soften, adding their juices to the liquid, which helps gently braise the chicken. Tip in pickled jalapeños and a bit of brine to add punch. Serve this with crusty bread or spoon it on to rice or polenta. A green salad or steamed broccoli complete the meal.
4 scallions, light green and white parts thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, grated or minced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 cup white wine
2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes
1/4 packed cup coriander, parsley or basil leaves and tender stems, gently torn or chopped
Preparation:
Heat the oil in a wide pot or deep 30cm skillet over medium-high until it shimmers. Add the chicken in an even layer and season the top with salt and pepper. Cook, undisturbed, until the chicken is browned and easily releases from the pan, seven to nine minutes.
Flip the chicken and add the scallions to the empty spaces in the pot. Season lightly with salt. Let cook until the scallions soften, about two minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, mustard and white wine, turning the chicken pieces over and back again to stir everything together, about one minute.
Add the tomatoes and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally and gently pressing the tomatoes with the back of a wooden spoon, until the tomatoes burst and the chicken is cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes more. Add a few tablespoons of water if it looks dry at any point.
Sprinkle with the coriander and serve.
4. Baked cod with buttery cracker topping
Baked cod with buttery cracker topping. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Photo / Sang An, The New York Times
Baked, stuffed fish is an old-school restaurant staple in New England. Covered in lemony, butter-soaked cracker crumbs, it’s a wonderful way to eat mild white fish like cod or haddock. The dish has a long history and relies on two ingredients New Englanders have in abundance: fresh seafood and crackers, which are descended from sailors’ hardtack. Fannie Farmer’s 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book has a recipe for cracker-stuffed halibut, seasoned with butter, salt, pepper and onion juice. Some modern versions use saltines, others use butter crackers like Ritz, and many enrich the crackers with crab meat. This recipe is an easy weeknight variation: instead of rolling the fish up around the stuffing, which requires long, thin filets, it is generously covered in the stuffing and roasted until the cracker topping is toasted and the fish flakes.
By Sarah DiGregorio
Volume: 4 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients:
115g butter-flavoured crackers, such as Ritz (about 1 1/2 sleeves; 1 1/2 cups crushed)
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley
1/2 lemon, zest and juice, plus more lemon wedges for serving
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
4 fillets of cod, haddock, halibut or other white fish
Coarse kosher salt and black pepper
Sweet paprika, for serving
Preparation:
Heat the oven to 220C. Put the crackers in a medium bowl and use your hand to crush them until they are finely crushed. (Some coarser bits are OK.) Add 4 tablespoons of the melted butter, the chives, parsley, lemon zest and onion and garlic powders, and stir to evenly combine, making sure to moisten all the crumbs.
Put the fish fillets in a large, ovenproof skillet. Drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon butter over the fish and turn to coat. Season the fish on all sides with salt and pepper. Mound the cracker mixture on top of the fish, covering it. (Some cracker crumbs will fall off the fish.)
Roast in the oven for 10 to 16 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. Plan for about 10 minutes per inch; the fish should flake easily, and the juices should be bubbly around the edges. Squeeze the lemon juice over the top. Sprinkle with paprika, and serve with extra lemon wedges on the side.
5. Corn quesadillas
Corn quesadillas. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Photo / Julia Gartland, The New York Times
Loosely inspired by the flavours of elotes and esquites, these vegetable-forward quesadillas are sweet thanks to peak-season corn, slightly smoky, and gently spiced, making for the most satisfying of summer meals. Fresh, plump corn (save the frozen stuff for another day) is quickly sautéed with poblano and jalapeno chiles until crisp-tender, helping to maintain its texture in the quesadilla. Creamy Monterey Jack cheese mellows the heat of the corn mixture, bringing its earthy savouriness to the forefront. The filling can hold for up to three days, meaning you can have fresh quesadillas on demand. To contrast with the richness of the cheesy, savoury filling, a zesty lime dipping sauce brings brightness and rounds out each bite.
By Kayla Hoang
Volume: 8 quesadillas
Total time: 50 minutes
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil, plus more as needed for cooking
2 cups fresh corn kernels, from 2 ears of corn
1 poblano chile, seeded and chopped (about 3/4 cup)
1 jalapeño (optional), finely chopped (about 1/3 cup), seeded for less heat
2 scallions, thinly sliced, whites and greens divided
In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high for about 1 minute. Add the corn, poblano, jalapeño (if using) and scallion whites and stir to combine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until any liquid is mostly evaporated and vegetables are crisp-tender, 4 to 6 minutes.
Add cumin, 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder (if using) and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute more. Transfer to a large bowl (reserve the skillet) and refrigerate to cool to room temperature while you make the dipping sauce.
Make the dipping sauce: Into a small bowl, grate 1/4 teaspoon lime zest and squeeze 1 1/4 teaspoons juice. Add the sour cream, mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon chopped coriander, remaining 1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder (if using) and a pinch of salt and stir to combine. (The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Stir before serving.)
Add the cheese, spring onion greens and remaining 2 tablespoons coriander to the bowl with the cooled corn mixture and stir until evenly distributed. (The filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
Assemble the quesadillas: Scoop a heaping 1/2 cup corn mixture onto half of each tortilla, then fold to create eight half moon-shaped quesadillas.
Wipe out the reserved skillet, add 1 teaspoon oil and heat on medium. Working in batches, place as many quesadillas as will comfortably fit in the skillet. Cook, lightly pressing to seal as the cheese melts, until golden brown on the underside, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook until golden brown on the other side, 1 to 2 minutes more. You can use a spatula to gently nudge any corn that may fall out (it may pop) back into the quesadilla. Repeat to cook the remaining quesadillas, adding more oil as needed.
If desired, transfer the quesadillas to a cutting board and cut into wedges. Serve quesadillas with the lime dipping sauce.
