Brunch: Black Cottage Cafe, Coatesville

Black Cottage Cafe, Coatesville. Photo / Sarah Ivey

Address: 308 Coatesville Riverhead Highway, Coatesville
Herald Rating:

Set in the heart of mansion meadows, this out-of-the-way cafe was enjoying its first birthday, so we thought we'd better join the celebrations.

The look was a little deceiving from the outside. With parked cars lining both sides of the rural highway, it looked like the little black cottage would be packed from wall to charming china plate-covered wall. But beyond the cosy house-like part was a sprawling, alfresco dining area with rustic timber beams and plastic curtains, and a kids' playground.

The menu - one side all-day breakfast; the other all-day lunch - was extensive and full of choice: from creamy coconut breakfast risotto ($12.90) to duck a l'orange ($28.90). This place is renowned for its fries with smoky aioli, but there were many appealing alternatives.

The food was handsomely presented. We ignored traditional for cultural, opting for the Mexican-style mince on homemade cornbread, and the welsh rarebit (both $19.90).

The tasty mince and beans were topped with two perfectly fried eggs; the rarebit, an interesting stack of rye, cheese and onion rosti, poached egg and spinach - but the rich smoked eggplant puree was an acquired taste. Because it was their birthday, we couldn't resist the delicious carrot cake with a slab of cream cheese icing ($5).

The coffee was Allpress and was fine, but our coffee connoisseur needed a double shot. The teas, served in very cool teapots, hit the spot.

The service was knowledgeable and attentive without being obtrusive. The water with mint leaves, served in old-fashioned milk bottles, was constantly refreshed without having to ask.

Overall, the Black Cottage Cafe is a satisfying reason to take a meandering drive through the lush Coatesville countryside (and include a snoop of Dotcom's mansion).