A glass above

Back in 1976 the wine world was aghast when a group of little-known cabernet blends from California beat some of the great wines of Bordeaux in a blind tasting that was to become known as the Judgment of Paris. In 2008 shockwaves are emanating from Taupo after a similar tasting of Bordeaux blends from our very own Gimblett Gravels went up against the biggies of Bordeaux and swiped four of the top six rankings, including first place.

When I first heard the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association proposed to pitch their Bordeaux blends against a selection of Bordeaux first growths and other greats at the Scenic Cellars annual Bordeaux tasting, I thought it brave, if a little bold. When I saw that the vintage they'd chosen was 2005, a top year in Bordeaux, I was seriously questioning whether they had as many rocks in their head as they had in their vineyards.

A sub-region of Hawkes Bay, Gimblett Gravels has only really been in existence as a wine growing area since the early nineties, as opposed to Bordeaux's venerable 2000 years. The opinion of many of us at the tasting was that the exercise would probably benefit the Gravels through their wines not looking totally out of place in this line-up.

So we were reeling when it was revealed that we'd rated Gimblett Gravels wines more highly overall than those considered some of the best in the world, and New Zealand contender, Blake Family Vineyards Redd Gravels was ranked top.

Bordeaux came in second, with the revered Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, then the next two places went to Sacred Hill Helmsman, followed by Mills Reef's Elspeth Cabernet Sauvignon. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild took fifth and Trinity Hill The Gimblett ranked sixth.

Like many, I thought the Gimblett Gravels wines would stick out in such sophisticated company as being a little more coarse and simple. However, the distance between the wines from the two regions was far closer than many had anticipated, a major feat in the light of the youth of the region and its vines, where those judged had an average age of eight years to the Bordeaux's 38.

Where there was a massive gulf was between the prices. The Kiwi contenders ranged from $30 to $70, and the Bordeaux $400 to $2000 a bottle.

Unsurprisingly, the French are not big fans of this kind of tasting, with many arguing for the importance of knowing the provenance and pedigree of a wine when making one's assessments. It's reputation, which has often been built up over hundreds of years, that's behind the kudos and the cash paid for their top wines, so this tasting won't have the Bordelaise shaking in their chasseurs. Reputation is something the Gimblett Gravels is just starting to establish, but this can only be assisted by outcomes like that of The Judgment of Taupo.

Taupo's top

Sadly, the Blake Family Vineyards are no more, as are stocks of its Redd Gravels 2005. However, limited stocks remain of these other high-ranking wines.

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Bordeaux 2005 $2000

Sadly the ultra-inflated prices of top Bordeaux wines have made them solely the preserve of the very rich. If you're not one of these, then live vicariously through my experience of this fabulously fragrant wine's poised and velvety textured palate that is built up through minerally, smoky and savoury layers around a core of pure dark fruit. Stunning.
(From Scenic Cellars.)

Sacred Hill Helmsman Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay 2005 $60

If you can't afford the Lafite then Sacred Hill's Helmsman, placed third, holds its own as a far more affordable alternative. Combining power and a sensuous elegance, this fragrant and muscular blend has dense dark berry fruit and notes of spicebox, all bound by a fresh line of acidity and robust but ripe tannins.
(From Scenic Cellars, Glengarry.)

Trinity Hill The Gimblett, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay 2005 $30

Its pure and vibrant blackcurrant fruit placed this wine for me in New Zealand, and it's a great example from the Gimblett Gravels. It's attractively supple and ripe with cedary spice and an underlying dark chocolatey richness.
(From Scenic Cellars, Glengarry, Liquor King.)