Some of New Zealand’s favourite dishes are also the causes of our most frequent kitchen calamities. In this series, Herald food contributor Nikki Birrell tackles our most common culinary mistakes. We’re all guilty of one...
Few kitchen failures feel quite as deflating as lumpy gravy. It should be glossy, rich and smooth enough to coat a roast potato. Instead, you’re left whisking furiously at a pot of beige porridge, wondering where it all went wrong.
The dish
Gravy sounds simple. A little fat, a spoon of flour, some stock and a good stir. But it’s one of the easiest things to botch. Too hot, too fast, too little attention – and the flour seizes into little balls that no amount of whisking can save.
Gravy is starch science. The thickening comes from flour granules swelling as they absorb liquid. They need steady heat and movement to hydrate evenly. Add stock too quickly or skip the whisking, and those granules clump together, forming the dreaded lumps. Once that happens, they stay sealed in a gummy armour no amount of boiling will fix.
The fix
- Start with a smooth roux. Melt fat – usually butter or pan drippings – in a saucepan over medium heat. Add flour gradually, stirring constantly, until it forms a smooth paste. Cook for at least a minute to remove the raw taste. This is your base, and it should be lump-free before any liquid touches it.
- Add liquid slowly. Whether it’s stock, wine or water, add it in stages. Begin with just a splash, whisking vigorously to loosen the paste into a slurry. Then add a bit more, whisk again, and continue until it’s pourable. Only then can you add the rest in a steady stream. This gradual dilution keeps the starch suspended and prevents instant clumping.
- Control the temperature. Boiling stock poured onto a cold roux will almost always seize. So will adding cold stock to very hot fat. The rule is: meet in the middle. Warm stock into warm roux, whisking continuously. Moderate heat gives you control; high heat gives you glue.
- Keep whisking. A whisk is non-negotiable. It breaks up particles better than a spoon and prevents settling. Once all the liquid is in, keep whisking gently until the mixture thickens – usually three to five minutes. When it starts to coat the back of a spoon, you’re there.
- Season last. Salted stock reduces as gravy cooks, so taste at the end. Otherwise, you risk over-seasoning once it thickens.
Too thick or too thin?
Even when lump-free, gravy’s texture can go wrong.
- Too thick? Whisk in a little hot stock or water, a tablespoon at a time, until it reaches a smooth, pourable consistency. Don’t add cold liquid straight from the fridge – it can shock the starch and dull the shine.
- Too thin? Mix one teaspoon of flour or cornflour with a tablespoon of cold water to make a slurry, then drizzle it in while whisking over medium heat. Give it a minute to cook out. The change is gradual, so resist the urge to dump in more straight away.
Remember that gravy thickens slightly as it cools, so stop cooking when it looks just a touch looser than you want on the plate.
Keeping it smooth
If you’ve ever wondered why restaurant gravy feels almost elastic, it’s because they whisk constantly and strain at the end. A fine-mesh sieve removes stray bits of meat, herbs or the odd lump before serving.
Cornflour-based gravies (made by dissolving cornflour in water before adding to stock) are more forgiving but less flavourful. The flour-based method gives that deep, savoury backbone most roasts need – as long as you treat it gently.
Extra tips
- Mind the ratio. A general guide is one tablespoon of flour and one tablespoon of fat per cup of liquid. Too much flour, and you’ll get paste. Too little, and it’ll never thicken.
- Use the right tool. A small balloon whisk is best; forks leave streaks.
- Add umami. A dash of soy sauce or Worcestershire adds depth without more salt.
- Deglaze the pan. Those browned bits on the roasting tray are pure flavour – loosen them with a splash of wine or water before starting your gravy.
If all else fails
If you’ve already made lumpy gravy, don’t bin it yet. Pour it through a sieve into a clean pot, pressing gently with a spoon to extract the liquid. If the texture still feels grainy, blend it briefly with a stick blender and reheat gently, thinning with stock if needed.
In a pinch, you can fake a smooth finish by stirring in a small knob of butter at the end – it gives shine and softens the texture.
Good gravy isn’t about luck; it’s about pacing. Heat and hydration are everything. Mix flour evenly with fat, add liquid gradually and whisk like you mean it. If it’s too thick, thin it; too thin, tighten it; too lumpy, strain it. The reward is gravy that’s smooth, balanced and quietly impressive – the kind that makes even average roast potatoes taste like a plan.
Herald contributor Nikki Birrell has worked in food and travel publishing for nearly 20 years. From managing your kitchen to cutting costs, she’s shared some helpful advice recently, including how to prep your barbecue for summer grilling, gourmet hacks for elevating budget ingredients and what toppings to choose for different crackers.