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Home / Business / Small Business

Small business: The Wild Fermentary - The ‘Bacteria Baristas’ serving up fermented food and drinks

Cameron Smith
By Cameron Smith
Online Business Editor·NZ Herald·
27 Nov, 2022 04:00 PM5 mins to read

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Kelli-Jo Walker, co-founder of The Wild Fermentary, with childhood friend and business partner Jen Worsfold (in background). Photo / Supplied

Kelli-Jo Walker, co-founder of The Wild Fermentary, with childhood friend and business partner Jen Worsfold (in background). Photo / Supplied

Fresh off winning BNZ’s Market Made competition, The Wild Fermentary’s Kelli-Jo Walker talks growing the fermentation scene in New Zealand and opening a microbial mixology bar at local Auckland markets called the ‘Bacteria Baristas’ with childhood friend and business partner Jen Worsfold.

What does your business do?

The Wild Fermentary serves up handcrafted fermented food and beverages. We believe in working in harmony with nature, pushing the boundaries, and taking a fresh approach to one of our oldest forms of food preservation. We also recognise our food choices play a significant role in the environmental challenges of our time and are dedicated to being part of the solution. The ethics of permaculture - earth care, people care and fair share – are at the heart of everything we do.

What was the motivation to start The Wild Fermentary?

We were, and still very much are, passionate about living food for a new way of living, because we believe our people, our land, and our food system need the healing power of nature - microbes included - perhaps now more than ever. We were motivated to show how many of the ancient ferments of the past are still relevant to a modern lifestyle and get New Zealanders to eat more fermented food for better health and wellbeing. We love creating fermented food and beverages that tell our unique New Zealand stories.

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Why Fermentation? What are the benefits?

Fermentation is transformation, culture and life. The unseen, magical world of microbes interconnects us with the life forces of the natural world and offers profound gut-health benefits we are only starting to understand.

Research shows the raw, alive type of ferments we produce – sauerkraut, kimchi, kefir - can help us digest food more easily, absorb more nutrients from our food and build better gut health to prevent illness and chronic disease. They are bursting with life and probiotics.

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From a flavour perspective, the best restaurants around the world have long used fermentation to build complex flavours that bring other food to life, literally. Looking back to the ancient ferments of the past may well be one of the smartest food choices we can make for our future.

What products do you sell?

We handcraft a range of award-winning sauerkraut, kimchi and Kefir Soda (water kefir). We were thrilled our Smoky Kāpeti sauerkraut was named Supreme Winner of the New Zealand Food Awards 2021 and this year winning the beverage category with our Beet & Berry Kefir Soda – a massive win for the emerging fermentation scene in New Zealand.

What were you doing before The Wild Fermentary?

My former life was in PR/marketing and business development before becoming a mum to three spirited boys, moving back to my family farm, and listening to a deep desire to show my kids where food comes from and hopefully inspiring them to be eco-warriors. My amazingly talented business partner Jen Worsfold has a background in jewellery design and retail.

How big is your team?

We are a small but mighty team of three full-timers, with casuals coming in on larger production days.

How much has the business grown since you started?

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Our beginnings were very humble - we started in a garage with a home food processor, and a few 10-litre crocks, taking ferments to the Clevedon Farmers Market every Sunday. Today, we have a beautiful new Fermentary on the family farm, use commercial machinery and ferment in 290L vats. Our range has exploded to 11 products with new seasonal flavours launching regularly.

The Wild Fermentary sells fermented food and beverages, including its award-winning Beet & Berry Kefir Soda. Photo / Supplied
The Wild Fermentary sells fermented food and beverages, including its award-winning Beet & Berry Kefir Soda. Photo / Supplied

You recently won BNZ’s Market Made competition, what was your reaction?

We were absolutely chuffed. Winning the BNZ Market Made competition has given us the resource to be able to develop a new “Bacteria Bar” at the Clevedon Farmers Market, where we serve up a range of new Kefir Soda flavours, gut shots (kraut juice), beetroot kvass, and milk kefir smoothies. We’re playing around with “microbial mixology” and really want to carve out a new Living Drinks category. The win is some much-needed rocket fuel to bring this concept to reality.

What’s the major focus for the business right now?

We would love to see ferments in the hands and mouths of more New Zealanders, so growth is our main focus. And we will always make funky, fun new flavours and collaborations with other cool New Zealand businesses a key part of what we do.

What challenges is the business facing at the moment?

I suspect the same challenges all small food business in New Zealand is facing right now; cashflow and rising ingredient, material and freight costs are areas we are constantly grappling with.

Where do you see The Wild Fermentary in the next three to five years?

We will be sharing the fermented love, caring for Mother Earth and punching above our weight. Seeing the Bacteria Bar concept spread and a Living Drinks category on every beverage menu would be a dream come true.

What advice do you give others thinking about starting their own business?

Be brave. Be bold. Smell the roses along the way - I often need reminding of this - and remember the difficult times are just the start of something new.

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