Cheap imports hit retail icon

By Keryn Scherer

For many Aucklanders, the death of one of the city's great retail icons, fabric chain Barker & Pollock, will not come as much of a surprise.

It has been notable for years that women are increasingly losing interest in making their own clothes.

But for the staff, the move came as a shock. While they couldn't help noticing the stores were much less full than they used to be, there was the feeling that the chain was bulletproof, says managing director Ivan Stanish: "It's been there so long."

In fact, the move comes after a long period of intense agonising over the chain's future. A sudden drop in demand in recent months forced the board's hand, he says.

"It's not as if we expected a fortune out of it. All we wanted was to be successful. But you can't get blood out of a stone."

For some fabric importers, the move is yet another blow after a string of failures in the apparel industry, including such well-known retailers as Thornton Hall and Hero.

It is a sign of the times that prominent Auckland receiver David Davidson is working almost entirely with the apparel industry these days.

"They either change or exit because they can't compete any more," he says.

Nutex Wholesalers is one of about a dozen fabric importers based in Auckland.

The company has been dealing with Barker & Pollock for 17 years and is one of its biggest creditors. Owner Greg Allnut regards some of the company's senior staff as personal friends.

When he started Nutex, the company prided itself on being a supplier to retailers. It is now increasingly reliant on supplying manufacturers.

"In the 17 years since Nutex has been going, our retail fabric shop accounts have been slowly dying or closing down," he says. "It's been brought on by imported garments being so cheap today that people don't sew at home. The Government has been letting everything in duty and licence-free. It has had a huge impact."

Another fabric wholesaler, Charles Parsons, has been dealing with Barker & Pollock almost since it began.

According to director Bill Scott, New Zealand fabric prices are among the cheapest in the world, as wholesalers pick up a lot of stock that has finished selling elsewhere.

"You could buy something that could cost $20 in the mill in the States and Europe and it could end up being on Barker & Pollock's shelves for $2 - albeit it might be three years down the track."

Like many others in the industry, Mr Scott believes cheap imported clothing is largely to blame for the chain's demise. He also says the field has become more competitive since Australian chain Spotlight decided to venture across this side of the Tasman.

However, Barker & Pollock's main opposition, Arthur Toye, refuses to be pessimistic.

With 12 stores throughout the North Island, the chain was founded just three years after two employees of George Courts' silk department, Gordon Pollock and Bertie Barker, decided to set up their own shop in Auckland's Karangahape Road.

It remains a family business. Joint managing director Mary Mangham is Arthur's Toye's daughter.

Mrs Mangham says the chain recently expanded several of its stores. In Britain and France, dressmaking is on the rise, she says, sparked by increasing interest in designer fashion.

The chain prides itself on being up to date with the latest fashions, she says.

There also continues to be a strong demand for fabric from ethnic groups such as Pacific Islanders, and many larger women or women with unusual body shapes also prefer to make their own clothes.

"Fabric stores will survive, but they won't be as prolific," she says. "And they will have to be run with a lot more knowledge and research than previously.

Someone who liked fabrics, who thought they could open a little fabric shop - that won't work any more."

Pictured: Barker & Pollock has seen many changes over the years, but its demise came as a shock to staff.